Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area Brookline

Taberna de Haro, Brookline


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Restaurants & Bars 5

Taberna de Haro, Brookline

Limster | Jan 23, 2003 09:50 PM

Last went there for dessert with our Brookline chowhounds MichaelB and Galleygirl when Eric Eto was in town. It was good, so I decided to go back for a real meal.

We were pleased with our selection of pintxos: a pleasant apple flavoured spread of cabrales, a nice tortilla, substantial looking despite the creamy texture of the potato, lightly spiced chrizo, and a satisfying brandada (salt cod and potato).

Gambas was the standout of the night, tight fleshy shrimp with a good hefty crunch in a garlicky bubbling butter sauce flecked with parsley and deliciously spiked with pin pricks of chilli flakes.

Matrimonio, alternate stripes of anchovies dark and light with green olives and potato chips, was a good rendition too. Very salty, briny dark ones and clear crisp tasting white anchovies (which I liked more).

A light vinaigrette was appropriate for soft white asparagus, true to its subtlely sour flavor.

Fried calamari is everywhere, this version had a very light breaded crust and perfect calamari, crunchy and tender.

Manchego, honey and walnuts are a simple combination, but it's very effective, the nutty cheese reasonating well with walnuts while its modereate richness is slightly tempered by the light polleny honey.

Flan is fairly good, if ever slightly rubbery at the top. Nothing against this version, but I'm generally more of a fan of versions with a richer, thicker consistency, like that served at Case de Pedro in Watertown. It's merely a personal preference.

Sampled a syrupy, lightly orangey muscatel, a dark rich sherry, and (my pick) a light, slightly acidic (just nice for cutting the rich meal) and almost floral malvasia (an easy choice, given my predilection for the sweeter varieties of madeira).

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