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Sweetbreads in Seattle

Tom Armitage | May 31, 201610:12 AM

Three years ago, there was a Chowhound thread captioned “Seattle Restaurants Serving Sweetbreads,” Restaurants mentioned included Nell’s, the now-closed Spur Gastropub, Queen City Grill (sweetbreads no longer on the menu as far as I can tell), Rione XII (sweetbreads do not appear to be on the current menu), Café Juanita (where sweetbreads used to be a staple but do not appear to be on the current menu), and Il Terazzo Carmine among others. Nell’s consistently prepares the best sweetbreads I’ve had in Seattle. They are not par-boiled and quickly pan-seared giving them a delicate, thin crust on the outside, but remaining tender and moist on the inside. They appear in different preparations depending on the season (e.g., with warm Brussels sprouts salad, apples, and juniper jus), but always with Chef Philip Mihalski’s deft touch so as not to overwhelm the delicate flavor and texture of the sweetbreads. Café Juanita’s classic preparation with capers, parsley and olive oil was a close runner-up to Nell’s even though, in my opinion, the par-boiling, although lightly done, somewhat affected the inner texture.. By contrast, I ordered the sweetbreads at Il Terrazzo Carmine recently and thought they were terrible – way overcooked resulting in a dry, sawdusty texture and drowned in a gloppy, overbearing sauce.

Since I’m a big fan of sweetbreads, I’m interested in the experience of other hounds as to what restaurant, in their opinion, prepares the best sweetbreads in Seattle.

Il Terrazzo Carmine
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