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Restaurants & Bars

Sweet House

Adam Stephanides | Oct 12, 2002 10:06 AM

Last night I had dinner at Sweet House, the new restaurant in Chinatown Square Mall (Archer & Cermak). I started off with fried seaweed and eel dumpings. These were like fried wontons, and not that good: they were dry, and the seaweed flavor overpowered the eel. Much better was the main course, salt and pepper white anchovies. These anchovies were nothing like the supersalted anchovies that come in tins; in fact, they were quite mild in flavor. And the "salt and pepper" preparation was very good. (Although the menu listed this dish as hot and spicy, it wasn't very hot, so it may have been toned down for the non-Chinese diner.) For dessert I had the milk custard with ginger. This was midway between a custard and a soup in consistency, and rather bland.

Going by this one meal, I'd say Sweet House is unlikely to displace Spring World as my favorite Chinese restaurant in Chicago. But it was good, if uneven, and I look forward to exploring the menu further.

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