We have just gotten back from a three-week bicycling trip in the western part of Cuba. Based on input from this Board and other places, my food expectations were extremely low, and overall it is fair to say that I was not disapointed.
There are very many good reasons for going to Cuba (nature, wonderful beaches, friendly people, great music, wonderful cocktails, Havana, etc, etc) but food is definitey not a reason. Anywhere you get served by waiters in a uniform (i.e. state-owned hotels restaurants) the food is dire. In Havana, all the tourist places are owned by Habaguanex, and the food is mediocre and expensive. In our last night in Havana, we also managed to get food-poisened at their Arabic restaurant.
Food served in private homes (either food only, or as part of a "bed and breakfast" tends to be better, but remains basic. That said, we had some wonderful lobster a couple of times (USD 8 per person), and I actually started to like rixe and black beans. The most exciting place we ate was in Las Terrazas, and a vegetraian restaurant right below Hotel Moka (which is very nice). This was the only place where I felt that the cook was realy trying to do his best to create interesting food. I did not like everything, but some stuff was great. Definitely worth a try.