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Restaurants & Bars

Suffolk Co. weekend

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Restaurants & Bars

Suffolk Co. weekend

Jeremy Osner | Aug 18, 2002 04:30 PM

I spent the weekend in Suffolk County and had 2 1/2 very satisfying meals. Dinner Saturday was at the oddly named Hellenica Snack Bar and Restaurant -- I say oddly because it is not a snack bar, it is a restaurant. And a very good one -- I had gigantes with sausage and it was the best Greek food I have had in a few years, light years beyond anywhere in Astoria. The beans were plump and tender, and full of flavor from the sauce, and the sausages were excellent. Other people at the table had various stewed lamb and chicken dishes and were all happy with them. Oh, and the appetizers -- tarama was rich and creamy, dolmades were succulent, hummus was forgettable. It is on Route 25 in East Marion, east of Greenport.

Lunch today was at The Shack -- I was delighted with my fish & chips, and Ellen with her fried catfish. Everything tasted very fresh and like it was cooked to order rather than hanging out in baskets waiting to be reheated. It is on Route 25A between Centerport and Northport. The menu is seafood -- fried, steamed, and raw -- and burgers.

The bonus find for the weekend was excellent home fries, at the weird and slightly-too-expensive diner called Village Crossroades, in Calverton. Take the LIE to Exit 71, go north until you hit Route 25, VC is on the corner. I say weird, because it looks more like the lobby of a cheap hotel than a restaurant -- the service is very slow but friendly -- $2.25 for an egg and homefries and toast seems a bit high, $3.25 for 2 eggs, but what really got under my skin is $1.75 for a cup of coffee. But I'd go back there for the homefries, which had lots of crispy bits (is "crispy" the correct adjective for the texture of the bits in good homefries? If not, substitute your preferred term -- I think you know what I'm talking about) and a subtly bacony flavor.

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