I like Lucky's for cocktails: they understand that their Rat Pack vibe totally falls down if they can't make a decent Manhattan. But I'm never one to praise the food at Lyons Brothers venues: I expect overpriced, only slightly-elevated renditions of bar food; cf. Harvard Gardens. These are saloons: drinks rule, dinner's an afterthought.
But I have to give props to a $22 Delmonico steak dinner I had here recently. A little over-salted, but otherwise a perfectly cooked-to-order club steak, with really beautiful sides: simple and flavorful charred red bell pepper halves, a mound of fantastic sauteed pearl onions, and the usual buttery, somewhat over-pureed potatoes.
A big plate of food, a good value, and closer to the classic 50s chophouse ethos they allegedly aspire to than any other meal I've had here. The bar-band singer in the corner (mostly wasting a decent blue-eyed-soul voice on Steely Dan covers) even does a credible Frank impression. I complete the picture by imagining sport coats and narrow ties on every baseball-hat wearing patron in the room.