Restaurants & Bars


Spring -- admiration but no love


Restaurants & Bars 42

Spring -- admiration but no love

Indy 67 | May 24, 2014 01:19 PM

Admittedly ZKG is a hard act to follow -- although we couldn't imagine how enthusiastic we'd become -- but we assumed Spring would be up to the challenge. Whoops! Not even close. Spring 's menu didn't educate us. Didn't make us consider unexpected flavor or textural combinations or juxtapositions. Simply stated we were bored.

Crispy frogs legs (standout)
Fresh pea soup (perfectly delicious but except for the silken texture nothing I don't already make)
Cucumbers vinaigrette (really!)

Crispy skin sea bream in vanilla broth (fabulous fish but I was put off by the vanilla fragrance wafting from my savory course)

White and green asparagus with bonito cru slices and hollandaise sabayon (I'm a fool for sashimi and cru preparations but this is edsentially a sourcing triumph. The flavor combinations are quite predictable)

Roast slices of veal with half a lengthwise slice of carrot (Until a small casserole of roast sweetbreads with lovely and generous Chanterelle mushrooms -- one slice per diner-- was brought to the table this showed a depressing lack of imagination)

The best course of the meal. Insane variety.
Pastry layer topped with vanilla cream and raspberries
Lemon curd topped with dots of perfect meringue
Chocolate "pudding" with blackberries
Peach sorbet

There were no mistakes in the cooking of my portion although my husband said his veal was somewhat dry. But there was no passion either.

To further irritate us this generous amount of food was fully served and consumed in 1 hour and 35 minutes. And we experienced downright leisurely service compared to many. Patrons who arrived up to 25 minutes after we did were being offered their desserts within three or four minutes of ours. One couple who added a cheese course had paid and we're out the door before we asked for the check. I can only assume the restaurant had 9:00 PM reservations for every single table.

All in all an expensive whatever. Is this restaurant intended for timid American eaters?

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