A few varieties of Italian restaurants (as I see it):
1) authentic and devoted to a particular region;
2) crappy, staffed by non-Italians (or Italians) out to make a buck on store-bought noodles;
3) inauthentic but sometimes very good California Italian;
4) competent but overpriced, i.e., we put out white linens, so you owe us an extra fifty bucks;
and on and on...
What I'm looking for is an Italian-American neighborhood joint, but a great one. Where the aim is low, but they never miss. Where the sausage is right. Where the marinara is always perfect. Where the garlic bread is a meal in itself.
A little help?