Every steam table place I encounter on this strip has its own special personality. This one, sporting a bright new awning, is about as bright, tidied-up and institutional-looking a place as I've seen around these parts. The manager and servers were very friendly and approachable. We placed our order at the counter and settled into our booth to be served.
The food fired on all cylinders. The yams had a proper hint of ginger and allspice, the greens (with turkey) hadn't a trace of bitterness and the black eyed peas were as good as any I've had in Chicago. Even the obligatory corn muffins were a treat. My son has an apple cobbler that was syrupy and cinnamony enough for his tastes. Nothing tasted canned or thawed-out.
Soul Food Limited sits astride a carry-out establishment (I did not catch the name) that advertises smelt and frog legs, among other fishy menu items. Could be worth a visit, but my son sensed that it was (in his words) "not inviting."
Soul Food Unlimited
"Best Sould Food in Town"
1421 W. 79th St.
773-723-5185 or 5187
Open Every Day 6am to 9 pm