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Restaurants & Bars 12

Smitten By Lineage's Rolls (and other Boston reports)

Jim Leff | Sep 14, 200905:32 PM

I really liked Lineage. I ate at Craigie St. Bistro just before they moved, and found everything technically competent and interesting, but nothing actually delicious. Lineage, for me, has the goods. I ate at the counter, and liked most things and loved a few things (hand rolled ricotta cavatelli with corn, chanterelles, and sage brown butter; seared haddock with cranberry beans, chorizo, and corn vinaigrette). But I want to concentrate on the rolls (see photo). I think these are my favorite rolls anywhere right now. I ate tons of them, and would very gladly make a meal of them. I can't believe nobody's raved over these things yet. Also, it's very difficult to have wines-by-the-glass wines come up to the quality of really good food, because of the mark-up issue. Sommeliers really need to work to find $20-35 (wholesale) bottles that can delight as surely as high-end food, because nobody will pay $25/glass. I tried a whole bunch of Lineage's wines, and there wasn't a clunker in the bunch. Most interesting: Sokol Blosser, Evolution #9 from Oregon, a white which uses nine(!) grapes.

Machu Pichu in Somerville was very good (this is the smaller place, on the corner). Friends loved the roast chicken (even white meat thoroughly moist all the way through), the tacu tacu (soupy rice and beans) was very good (though sorely lacked cilantro). I loved the Peruanisimo sandwich (pork with marinated onions, hot pepper, and thin slices of fried sweet potato) rocked, and the regular old beans, as side dish, absolutely killed. Nice not-oversweet chicha morada. Gringo-ized alfajores.

Mul's Diner, the south boston diner breakfast legend, tastes a bit past its prime. The hash was kind of frizzy, the (cubed) home fries pretty much vestigial. Not bad, but you could feel the coasting.

I was hoping to eat at the Moroccan in east boston, and was devastated that it'd closed. Hit Clambox instead, still hate their onion rings (completely raw crunchy onion inside, how do they do it?) but couldn't stop eating them. Clam bellies were a bit small, and unthrilling. Scallops better than usual.

I made some better finds in CT on the way home. See here: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/652375

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