Thanks to Chowhound, I've discovered Great New York Noodletown.
Yesterday I asked one of the waiters what one of the big kitchen gadgets was. It looked like one of the bulbous Venera landers the Soviets had sent to Venus, complete with a curved rail around it. He said it was for roasting the poultry, and he pointed out the bigger roaster, set into the wall, for the pigs.
I know Noodletown's hanging meats were praised, till then I'd assumed that all the Chinese roast meats I've been seeing came from some central kitchen that sold to restaurants and retailers. What are other Chinatown restaurants that roast their own, if that's uncommon?