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Singapore and Malaysia – Part 4/5- Penang Report

Paprikaboy | Apr 2, 201505:40 AM

Day 8

Jit Sheng Duck Rice, Jalan Cheong Fatt Tze, George Town

Duck rice.

Nice fatty juicy duck, disappointingly the skin wasn’t all that crisp. Came with a clear cabbage soup, wasn’t sure at first but it’s slightly bitter vegetal notes worked very well with the rich duck.

Fried Fish Meat Bee Hoon, Goh Chew Coffee Shop, New Lane , George Town

Fish Bee Hoon

The coating on the fried fish was perfectly crisp containing good chunks of moist fish. Fried bee Hoon, again not my favourite style of noodles , sauce coating the noodles was ok, nothing amazing though.

Day 9

Line Clear, Penang Road, George Town

Nasi Kandar

Ever since watching the Penang episode of Bourdain’s No Reservations I’d wanted to come here. Given that it’s a mix of curries and then they add other sauces it’s a little difficult to pick out the individual flavours. The spicing was good and robust and everything cooked really well .Especially liked the okra (apart from Sri Lanka I don’t think I’ve been anywhere as good as Malaysia at cooking okra.) and the salted egg. A great first breakfast in Penang

Yeap Noodles, 227, Lebuh Chulia, George Town.
Loh Bak

These were somewhat different to the Ngoh Hiang I had at Nancy’s in Melaka. I’m assuming they’re essentially the same thing but under different names. The skins weren’t quite as crisp apart from the ends and the spice was somewhat more prominent. The pork wasn’t as fine but was fattier and sweeter than at Nancy’s .

Sai Lam Coffee shop, 307 Lebuh Chulia (at Carnarvon St), George Town,

Char Kway Teow

This was recommended by the very nice guy (Jo)who ran the bar I was drinking in on Love Lane . Very good noodles with a quite fiery, smoky sauce. Nice amount of cockles but could have done with a bit more Chinese sausage.

Day 10

Sup Hameed 48 Jln Penang, Georgetown

Nasi Kandar

I’d spied on a wander earlier that that they did roti canai but that was over by the time I got there at 11 (note to self don’t drink with people half your age the night before. Nasi Kandar was the only option. Went for the mutton and fish and a vegetable that I didn’t recognise but was very bitter and didn’t really care for.. Added a salted egg of course. Not bad but Line Clear was definitely better.
Woodlands, 60, Lebuh Penang, Georgetown,
Needed something to tide me over before dinner so decided on a dosa forgetting how big they are. Went for a potato dosa. The dosa was nicely thin and crisp , the potato filling was quite mild and I detected a citrus hint, not sure what it was but it was very welcome. The gravy was so as was the plain coconut chutney but the green chilli coconut chutney was excellent

Asam Laska and Satay stalls, New Lane, Georgetown.

Asam Laska

The broth was not as spicy as I’d hoped. The first few sips were great when there was the hit of the shrimp paste. After that had dissipated there was some sourness but not much depth after that. Liked the thick noodles in there though.
Satay Stall

Decided on the lamb satay mainly because I’d only ever had it with pork or chicken before. The lamb skewers were nicely fatty and were cooked properly until the fat had rendered and they were crisp. Peanut sauce was fine.

Day 11

Roti Canai stall, Transfer road, George Town

Roti canai and nasi lemak
Jo from the bar very kindly took me for breakfast on the back of his tiny motorbike. My first nasi lemak of the trip (not counting the awful version at my hotel in Singapore). I’ve eaten this all over London and this wasn’t the version I was used to. Just rice, ikan bilis and sambal. The rice was a little hard but nice enough , good sambal and a scattering of the ikan bilis. This though was a mere sideshow to the main event. Two wonderfully crisp roti smothered in their sauce which had a lot of tomato in it, very different to sauces I’ve had in London. The chicken curry was pleasant enough.

(?) stall, National Park,Penang

Nasi Goreng

Can’t remember the name but it’s the first food place on leaving the national park. Being near a tourist site wasn’t holding out much hope. As they appeared to specialise in nasi goring and that’s what everyone was ordering I gave it a go. Not too oily and nice bit of heat. Not bad at all and a good choice if you happen to be visiting the park, loses points for no fried egg though.

Mama’s Lorong Abu Siti, Georgetown

Green beans with ikan bilis, choon piah & otak otak.

The welcome was slightly frosty which based on my experience so far was unusual. I was on my own and hadn’t booked so maybe that was something to do with it? The green beans were too al dente even for me and I think they’d been cooked in chicken stock. I thought the ikan bilis would provide the seasoning but they were pretty bland. The next two dishes more than made up for it. The shell on the choon piah was wonderfully crisp and I’m not sure of the filling but it had a deep savouriness. The accompanying sauce was tangy and I couldn’t stop eating it. The otak otak came wrapped in a banana leaf and was lovely and soft ,the flavour of the fish was very delicate and the coconut and lemongrass added a wonderful fragrance. If I had to pick a favourite dish of my time in Malaysia the otak otak would be it.

We got chatting and they asked if I’d had nyonya food elsewhere and I said I’d had it in Melaka. Which version did I like best? . Well on the dishes I’d picked it Nancy’s vs Mama’s it was Mama’s. Once I’d told them this they this were decidedly more friendly. I asked what was in the sauce for the choon piah but they wouldn’t give anything away, only that some places use Worcester sauce but they made their own. Once they told me this the penny dropped. It did indeed Tate similar to Worcester sauce only far ,far better.

Day 12

Restoran Sri Ananda Bahwan, 55, Penang Street, George Town

Poori Masala.

Disappointingly thick and quite greasy poori. Forgettable potato masala. Can get better in London TBH.

Joo Hoo Café , 475 Jalan Penang, George Town

Duck Meat Koay Teow T’ng

Nice clear broth with one of my favourite kind of noodles. Also good fish balls and a few pieces of tender shredded duck meat. Not amazing but a bowl of some of my favourite things so I was a happy boy.
For dinner I had char kway teow on Pennag Road. Bit too greasy and largely forgettable like the name of the establishment

Day 13

Ali Nasi Lemak, Sri Weld Food Courts, Beach street, George Town.

Shrimp Nasi Lemak

I had to catch an early ferry to Langkawi. This place is very conveniently located for a quick breakfast beforehand. Very small shrimp still with the shell on, slightly crunchy but still good. The sambal that they’d been cooked in had good levels of heat and suitably fruity and well rounded. The rice had a good coconut fragrance but it was not overwhelming. Definitely a step up from the version on Transfer Road,

{Photos Left to Right, Nasik Kandar- Line Clear, Dosa- Woodlands, Asam Laska-New Lane, Char Kway Teow-Sai Lam, Nasi Kandar-Sup Hameed, Nasi Lemak - Transfer Road, Lamb Satay- New Lane, Roti Canai- Transfer Road, Poori Masala- Restoran Sri Ananda Bahwan, Duck Meat Koay Teow T’ng- Joo Hoo Café }

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