For my trip to Malaysia and Singapore I flew into and out of Singapore so this post includes both times I was in Singapore.
Tiong Bahru- Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice. 56 Smith Street
I was quite jet lagged and as my plane landed at 7am I was after something fairly gentle to start the day off. This was the first place in Chinatown that I saw specialised in chicken rice. The chicken was ok but a little dry , didn’t detect any real fragrance in the rice.
-Bismillah Biryani, Dunlop St/Perak Road, Little India ,
Apparently the only dum biryani in Singapore. Not sure if that’s true but it was so good I don’t really care. Mango lassi was ok but a little too sweet for my palate. Came ready sealed so not sure if they did that or they bought it in or not?
Mutton biryani was excellent, one of the best I’ve had. Fall off the bone meat with a great depth of flavour. Excellently judged spicing with large black cardamom pods and a good chilli heat .Perfectly cooked rice that had soaked up the meat juices, still some marrow left to suck out.
Maxwell Road Food centre, Maxwell Road.
Not fully sure of the name of the stall but it was next to Zhen Zhen porridge (large queue unfortunately) nicely cooked omelette. I don’t usually like cooked oysters but these were not over cooked and added a nice saltiness. Definitely needed the chives and spring onions to cut through the richness, the chilli sauce helped too.
Also had an egg tart from another stall. Smooth and soothing egg custard, excellent crumbly pastry.
Red Dot Brew House, 34 Boat Quay.
After walking round a very hot and humid Singapore I was in need of a drink. Walked past many places offering me a free beer with a meal, and it reminded me of Brick Lane in London in that respect. I wasn’t all that hungry having had breakfast at the hotel plus food at Maxwell Road. Red Dot fitted the bill perfectly. To eat I had the fried mini crabs. Very crisp batter and nice enough though not amazing, chilli sauce was pedestrian. To drink I had their summer ale, which was a less hoppy version of a US IPA, it had a nice fragrance. The English Ale was less successful but being English I had to try it out of curiosity. Not much bitterness, more of a dark lager really.
Old Chang Kee and other curry puffs.
The Chang Kee branch was in a shopping centre near city hall MRT. The pastry was excellent (a recurring theme during my time in Singapore) very short and crumbly and I’m sure there was cinnamon in the pastry. Filling was quite mild in flavour and spicing but nicely soothing. Good to see boiled egg in there, which I love in a curry puff.
On the way back to my hotel a lady was selling curry puffs outside City Hall MRT, so bought three for $1 as a compare and contrast. These were much smaller than those from Chang Kee and the pastry was much more like that in a samosa. Filling was sweeter with more robust spicing; I thought I detected some belechan in there. No boiled egg though.
Banana Leaf Apollo, 45 Race Course Road, Little India.
Went for the fish head curry. For some reason I thought it would be several small fish heads, so was a bit surprised when the giant snapper head turned up. The fish was perfectly cooked. The curry gravy was very good, spicy and packed with fennel (?) and tamarind, very much like the sauce I’ve had at my favourite Chettinad place
Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice Stall, Maxwell Road Food Centre
Was feeling a little delicate after Langkawi and needed to make up for my somewhat mediocre chicken rice when I arrived in Singapore. Perfectly cooked chicken and delicately flavoured, well cooked rice and a good chilli sauce. Not surprised it’s so well rated.
Old Chang Kee and Mos Burger, near Toah Payoh MRT.
I was meant to be going to the Chomp Chomp Food Centre but due to some seriously bad info in the guide book I was quite a way from it (I’d gone to Toah Payoh station). Decided on a last curry puff and for old times’ sake a Mos cheese burger. I don’t know if it was having virtually no bread and no cheese for close on three weeks or nostalgia for my time in Japan but I really enjoyed this sloppy mess of a burger
Tak Po, Smith Street, Chinatown.
Much as I enjoyed the Mos Burger I couldn’t let it be my last meal in Singapore. Despite free breakfast at the hotel (which I ate after) I wanted dim sum for breakfast. The scallop and seaweed dumplings had nice thin skins and a good delicate flavour. The pork rib with black beans were ok, bit too fatty and no real black bean flavour. The absolute stand out though was the egg tart still warm from the oven. Excellent crumbly pastry as I’d come to expect and a slightly oozy filling.Similar in flavour to other tarts I'd had but it being warm made all the difference.
Dian Xiao Er, T3 Changi Airport.
I assumed that the service would be quick as it’s an airport but the place was packed and one waitress in particular was rushed off her feet. Made my flight (just). Went for the ten wonder duck and rice. Small portion which I assume was a quarter(?), nice that it was on the bone. Very tender, though the skin wasn’t all that crisp. I’m not sure what the ten herbs were but the sauce was good and faintly medicinal tasting (in a good way). As I’d not really eaten in restaurants wasn’t sure whether the $2 peanut charge and the 30c for a wet wipe was a restaurant thing or an airport thing.
Will post part 2 Melaka when I get time.
( Photos = Giant first photo: Curry puffs from lady outside City Hall MRT station L TO R Egg Custard Stall Maxwell Road, Fish Head Curry Banana Leaf Apollo, Hainanese Chicken Rice Long Bahru Chinatown, Hainanese Chicken rice. Tian Tian stall.Maxwell Road food centre, Maxwell Road Food centre, Oyster Omelette stall, Mutton Biryani - Bismilah Biryani Little India, Mutton Biryani - Bismilah Biryani Little India, Osyter Omelette- Maxwell Road Food Centre, Scallop and sea weed dim sum and egg tart. Tak Po Chinatown, Ten Wonder Duck- Dian Xiao Er- T3 Singapore Airport)