A few days ago someone asked about Engine Co. No. 28. Not having eaten there in some time, I didn't feel competent to comment. But demonstrating my incompetence by way of example I will say I recall good crab cakes and garlic fries there. Their promo stuff talks about the food being "inspired by the regional American cooking that flourishes in firehouses around the country." (If true, I would expect few firemen could make it up the ladder, but the food is good.) Still, nothing I read and my vague memories failed to conjure up any signature dish. Is it enough to just be good at a lot of stuff but not have any outstanding dish? Is consistency preferable to one great entree or appetizer? Think of the catfish at Shiro, the corn chowder at Ivy, Prado, et al, oeufs a la coque at L'Orangerie, etc. What say you (with mouth watering examples, please)?