Will spend 12 days circumnavigating Sicily, then 4 days in Naples/Caserta. Am very wine and slow-food oriented, and well traveled, and would eat up advice, experiences, tales, etc. Esp. interested in Sicilian recommendations, as visiting family in Caserta, so expect to have fewer choices there. Still, a special opportunity will lead to an override of familial face-stuffing!
Off-the-beaten track is fine - welcome, even.