Restaurants & Bars 17

Serious Sichuan Food @ No. 10 Chinese Restaurant, Earl's Court, London

limster | Jun 13, 200803:13 PM

Dan4 dan4 mian4 aka dan dan noodles are a touch on the soft side, but the chilli fragrance is excellent, with just the right sour shade of vinegar. The bits of minced pork are edged with crispy points, from serious wokking. Very oily as it should be. Very well calibrated and aromatic flavours.

Twice cooked pork aka hui2 guo1 ruo4 is one of those Sichuan classics that don't involve sichuan peppercorns. This rendition is a very good example -- the right cut of pork -- fatty and steaky, cooked to a firm texture vaguely reminiscent of certain waxed meats, accompanied by leeks. A sauce with black bean paste, garlic and chilli oil. The flavours could be even more smoky, but that's a quibble.

The chef is from Sichuan and these 2 dishes suggest that this place is worth some serious exploration. There's are reasonable chance that it could turn out to be really good.

BTW, the Guizhou Mao Tai might be interesting to hard liquor drinkers.

The Sichuan items are largely written only in Chinese on the white board near the door. Non Chinese readers will need to interrogate the waitstaff. Other classic Sichuan dishes there that I remembered include cold noodles (liang2 mian4), water cooked beef/fish (shui2 zhu3 niu2/yu2 rou4), fish in bean sauce (dou4 ban4 yu2), fatty pork in a garlic vinaigrette (suan4 ni2 bai2 rou4), tofu with minced pork in a chilli/bean sauce (ma2 po2 dou4 fu4). A chrysanthemum fish (ju2 hua1 yu2) caught my eye will have to ask about it next time. A few other Sichuan dishes seem to be scattered in the largely Cantonese menu (e.g. sea spicy shredded pork/yu2 xiang1 rou3 si1, Kung Po Chilli Chicken/gong1 bao3 ji1. They also have Sichuan style hot pot and some banquet looking menus at £30 or £40.

Located at 10 Hogarth Place, London SW5 0QT 020 7373 7000.

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