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S&I Totally Worthy Thai

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S&I Totally Worthy Thai

StriperGuy | May 4, 2008 01:13 PM

Props to Galangatron on the "Chowish places that have not caught on" thread: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/515457

I was on my way to have a Salgadinho lunch at my favorite place in Allston and found out they close at noon on Sunday :(

Was about to hit Gitlo's, when S&I was there staring me in the face. To make a long story short, I was blown away, though for the first time I found myself hesitating to say so on Chowhound. The place is so small and so low key, a bit hesitant to see it swamped.

I had a lunch plate. The two dumplings I had as my "choice of app" were the best thai iteration I have ever had. Delicate mince of filling inside and the classic dark soy dipping sauce. I would go back just for more of them.

The Tom Kha soup was a delicate revelation (excuse me for a touch of Limsteresque prose) redolent with lemon grass and seasoned just so. Did not think that Tom Kha, which is often just warm water with some blanched chicken thrown in and some chili sauce as an excuse for flavor, could be so delicate and subtle.

Finally my main was the Prik Kning. Yummy, funky, complex, with probably a touch of shrimp paste to boost the nice touch of funk. Quite simply a whole different level of flavor then any other thai dish I have had elsewhere.

Even the little jars of chilis (a la Dok Bua) were a notch above. They had bird chilis in a fish sauce base which was much more tasty then Dok Bua's version which I love. They also had another very mild jar of pretty, fresh red and green chilis in a sour and ever so slightly sweet vinegar sauce. These bright fresh peppers were a cleansing foil to my zingy Prik Kning.

And on and on...

As I was about to leave I noticed some baked goods at the counter. Curry puffs and some little cookies. Decided to stay and try the cookies with a thai iced coffee. The coffee was bitter-pungent perfect, the precious three-petal-shaped cookies were buttery with what I think was a touch of a nutty filling, again, wow.

Photos of all of the dishes on the walls, including quite a few dishes that are not on the English menu including catfish on the bone with thai eggplant.

Push comes to shove, after only one tasting, I would even give this place the edge over Dok Bua. Quite simply a level of subtlety, flavor, and execution that I have never had in thai food. With three tables this place could not handle much of a crunch, but the food should have them lining up outside the door.

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