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Short Review of Mozza


Restaurants & Bars 8

Short Review of Mozza

David Kahn | Apr 16, 2007 03:05 PM

Well, I finally made to to dinner at Mozza ( ). I'm not usually very good at reserving months ahead, but in this case, I lucked out and was given a Saturday night reservation by a friend who had a conflict arise at the last minute. As a point of reference, my favorite pizza ever is Regina's in Boston's North End. (Preferably followed by a generous slice of ricotta pie at Modern Pastry.)

Anyway, as for Mozza, I didn't like the atmosphere. It was very loud and filled with hipsters, hard to talk, crowded, and not terribly comfortable. On the other hand, we had an 8 pm reservation, and were seated right away. There were six of us, and we shared everything, so I got to try lots of appetizers, seven different pizzas, and a bunch of desserts. Not everything was great, and one or two things were not to my liking at all. In particular, I didn't care for the chicken liver appetizer; something about the liver and lemon flavors was really off-putting to me.

All that said, many of the dishes we tried were very good, and several were outstanding. The fennel sausage pizza, the egg pizza, the squash blossom appetizer, and the speck appetizer were genuinely excellent. (While it's very different from the Regina's, the sausage pizza reminded me of Regina's in a good way.) Easily, the best pizza I've had in LA so far. (Although I haven't yet tried Vito's or Casa Bianca.) I thought the eggplant caponata appetizer kicked a**, and I really liked the spicy broccoli side dish. Finally, Mozza has the best butterscotch pudding I've ever tasted.

Service throughout was okay, in a bemused, hip, ironic sort of way. I also thought the wine selection was nice and liked that it included a number of unusual, moderately priced Italian reds. But really, it's the food that stands out. Overall, there are enough really good items on the menu that I would return notwithstanding the things I don't like about the place. Also, I'd like to try lunch at Mozza; bet the atmosphere would be more to my liking.

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