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Shanghai Style in Artesia

Stan | Jun 23, 200408:16 PM

Pioneer Blvd in Artesia isn't just Little India. If you keep going north, there are numerous Chinese and Korean places, mostly on the west side of the street, including a 99 Ranch Market and a Korean supermarket, pretty much until you get to Norwalk. Jonathan Gold dissed these places when he wrote about Pioneer Blvd in 1999. Has anything changed since then? I went for a walk, looking for someplace with a decent vibe and a convincing menu. I settled on Shanghai Style Restaurant (18311 Pioneer Blvd, (562) 916-0091, Long Beach 172 or 173 from the Norwalk green line station (get off at 183rd and Grindley and walk east) or the 362 from downtown LA). It has only about a dozen tables and a correspondingly short menu, but otherwise it is similar to Green City.

I got the chicken and chestnuts in hot pot and the soup dumplings. I was going to get the eel and chestnuts, but I figured that I didn't want to deal with the bones. Silly me: this being a real Chinese restaurant, the chicken was full of bones as well. The chicken and chestnuts comes in a brown sauce that can be warm and nutty or oppressively sticky, depending on how it is done. This version was probably in the middle somewhere, good at first and less good as it cooled. It also had kind of burned look to it, though nothing tasted burned. The soup dumplings, though, I liked. The fillings had a crumbly quality that took a little getting used to but was not unpleasant. There was plenty of soup inside, and fresh ginger to put on top of them. These two dishes are not a fair test of the place. In any case I'd go back.


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