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Shaky Blast-Off at Eldo's Grill and Brewery

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Restaurants & Bars

Shaky Blast-Off at Eldo's Grill and Brewery

Duke Dee | Jan 15, 2002 11:23 PM

The failed Golden Gate Brewpub has reemerged as Eldo's
Grill and Brewery and opens to the public Weds. 1/16/02
The venue premierd at several "families and friends"
dinners this week. The stainless steel brew tanks no longer overwhelm the interior and aren't even in pro-
dustion. 16 microbrewa are on tap-the usual suspects
(Sierra Nevada) and a few boutique selections like
Mirror Pond Ale and Potrero Hill Porter.
The Menu(described by the GM as "west coast grub")
will be familiar to patrons of the neighborhood bistro comfort food- a la Park Chow and the just opened Home.
Out is the SOMA loft-West L.A. hi-tech look.
In is textured walls, custom wall sconces and whimsical
(and hi-priced!) hand carved wooden carousel animals.

Sampled were:
posole- the New Mexican soul food. totlally lacking any of the forward flavors of lime or pork. all the complexity of a bowl of cream of wheat.

eggplant Napoleon- a misguided concoction of stacked and breaded fried eggplant smeared with a skimpy and dry version of this chef's pesto.

traditional brasserie sausage platter- mealy weisswurst
anyone? like your kraut on the dry and krispy side?

macho nachos- the way you would expect them to taste after 2 pitchers of frozen margaritas at Metereon.

black bean chili- bingo! piquant, rich and luxouriously
seasoned.

fajitas Orlando-generous portions of flank steak with
passable vegetables and fresh flour tortillas.

pollo isla bonita- MVP! moist, buttery and skin on.
the star of the sample menu.

Other unsampled items on the regular lunch and dinner
menu: paella valenciana ($16) beer braised burrito ($9)
house burger($7) ceviche($8) and carne asada ($16)

Eldo's is a well funded concept restaurant with savvy
management and front of the house pro's. Tony Gulisano's nearby Park Chow became an overnite neigh-
borhood institution and a mainstream media food writer
favorite. They share a similar menu and a similar vibe-
casual but cordial and efficient. Can Elso's follow?

Eldo's Grill and Brewery
1326 ninth Avenue at Irving St
SF tel 415-564-0425
no url

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