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SF Hounds arrive-- Kowloon and Kelly's

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SF Hounds arrive-- Kowloon and Kelly's

jaweino | Jul 23, 2002 07:03 AM

We got in late Sunday night and like addicts in need of a fix headed to the North Shore for our clams, lobster rolls and egg rolls.

We gave a sigh as we passed Angie's, now a BBQ.

Or first stop was at Kowloon where we had orders of Egg Roll and BBQ Spare Ribs. The Egg Roll was great with duck sauce, just like I remember. I know there has been a move away from old time "Boston style" Chinese food to more "authentic" Chinese, however, I find all the egg rolls, spring rolls, etc I have had in Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese restaurants to be bland and boring next to these. These were thick, complex stuffed with roast pork, vegetables and wonderful spices under a crispy skin. Yimster keeps promising me he will get the recipe and make some for me, but so far has come up blank. I have had a lot of good spare ribs in SF, but IMHO the ribs were far superior here. The ribs in SF tend to be 1” to 2” long, in a heavy sweet marinade, and relatively fatty. These ribs are 4” to 6” and much leaner. The marinade is not as thick and the spices seem more complex.

I don’t understand why all my friends who still live in Boston proudly announce that they no longer eat this kind of Chinese food, because of their desire for more authentic styles. However, they willingly wait in line and pay top dollar for so-called fusion food. While I like Beijing, Sechuan, Hunan, Hakka, Singaporean , etc., styles, I consider Boston style another provincial cooking style. It’s the kind I grew up with and it’s good and tasty food.

We made a note of the twin lobster special for $18.95. You get your choice of boiled, Chinese style, Spicy Thai, Ginger and Green onions, and one or two other ways. It’s a far cry from the old $3.95 twin lobster special at the now long gone Dill’s of Marblehead, but gas was also 29 cents a gallon back then.

We next moved up highway 1 to Kelly’s for Fried Clams and a Lobster Roll. The clams were $12.95 for a small order and $23.95 for a large. The Lobster Roll came on a nice buttery grilled bun that was crammed with what seemed a whole lobster with a little celery and mayonnaise. It was very good. I think a little butter drizzled on it would have made it perfect. The clams were the best I’ve had since the last time I came to Boston. The crust was excellent and the clams were sweet and flavorful. They were a little rubbery however.

Yimster has asked me to bring him back some fried clams and egg rolls, so he’ll know what I’m always going on about. I’m afraid I’ll arrive with a soggy mess. Does anyone have any suggestions of how I could bring them back with some integrity?

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