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Restaurants & Bars 16

Little Serow in DC – Report

Steve | Nov 14, 2011 07:19 AM

This is the basement start-up underneath Komi that is dedicated to serving a $45 7-course Issan Thai menu in a hip, soothing environment. No reservations, and the menu changes weekly. Everyone in the restaurant is served the same menu, no options. Excellent service. Stool seating is a bit hard.

I will try to keep this brief.

First, I strongly encourage anyone thinking about this to go sample the Lao menu at Bangkok Golden in Seven Corners. I have eaten there many times, and there is little doubt in my mind you will eat much better and cheaper. The biggest difference you will find is the larp – the BG version outstanding for the pronounced fleshiness of the raw fish and the heady mixture of spices and heat.

However, if this is too daunting a voyage for you, I don’t mean to quibble with deliciousness. Everything served here is at least good. The Sai Oua (Lao Sausage) is very delicious, the most successful dish. If I had not had its counterpart at Bangkok Golden, I might even think I couldn’t find better. But the Little Serow version is foamier and relies more on salt for it’s flavor, as where the BG version has a varied texture of supple meat, fragrant with dill and lemongrass.

The only other thing I’d like to add is not to go at this point expecting innovation or creative plating. This is homey fare, not much different than what you might find in dozens of holes-in-the wall, except that it specializes in a cuisine unrepresented downtown. At this point I put it firmly behind the Lao food I had when Sandy was cooking at Canton Gourmet Express, Issan dishes available from takeout at Rabeing Market, and even further from Bangkok Golden.

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