For years Sapporo served what I think were the best gyoza in NYC - thin, delicate skin, crispy and browned on one side, tender and steamed on the other, with a complex and delicious filling, served 7-8 on a plate, freshly made and hot. The other night, however, the gyoza were straight from hell: Thick, chewy, rubbery skins, served tepid and tasteless. My friend actually had to tear open and then discard the skins to get at the fillings. I pray these bloated, doughy hellions were an aberration and that they will return to fine gyoza-making form. They could also use some new blood in the kitchen in general. The noodle soup base is tired and one-dimensional, and the ingredients (pork, fishcake, etc.) are all rather lifeless.