The Sandwich Shop at Bar Tartine launched a little over a year ago, and while it's one of those places I've had on my midbrain list to try, it took me till today to show up. This is a limited rave for the so-called Everything sandwich, but a rave nonetheless. Here's where the rave begins.
The "everything" in the name refers to the everything bagel, but this is on sliced Tartine country bread: house-cured lox (really lightly cured, beautifully tender, red-fleshed salmon, king probably), and tangy housemade quark, and then the thing that gives the everything is name—a mix of crunchy, seedlike little things vaguely like the stuff that coats its namesake bagel. Crunchy fried onions, semicrisp little French lentils, and I don't know what else (I was too into eating it).
This is sandwich making as a detailed craft, where flavor and texture are equally important. Really skilled work.
And then, on a sunny afternoon in the Mission, the place felt really charming, like a place you'd stumble on in Amsterdam, partly open to Valencia Street with its tourists and locals, the rustic woody-ness of Tartine's interior, and the bar with its roster of five drafts (I drank a black lager from Linden Street in Oakland, a revival of a San Francisco steam beer). It can be hard to get excited about sandwiches, but the Everything is a sandwich with excitement built in. Can't wait to go back and try the next one on the list. (Keep in mind, the Sandwich Shop at Bar Tartine is open W-F only, and only during lunchtime.)