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San Tung at 10th & Irving July 2006


Restaurants & Bars 16

San Tung at 10th & Irving July 2006

Tripeler | Jul 21, 2006 04:20 PM

I love great potstickers, but must profess a preference for the Japanese style, handmade and fresh. San Tung filled the bill perfectly with their wok-fried pot stickers, and like in Japan, the holy trinity of chili oil, soy sauce and white vinegar were on the table. They are fantastic. But we almost liked better the boiled pork dumplings with chewy wrappers and stock-laden juicy pork inside. Couldn't pass up the dry fried chicken wings -- which really don't deserve the "spicy" designation on the menu since you can leave the fried chili shards on the plate; the surprise here was the faint sweetness on the crispy skin. Finally, as a nod to their house-made noodles, we had vegetarian chow mein. The perfect guage of noodle, with astonishing chewiness but no toughness. San Tung really know their carbs -- the flour element of the pot stickers, boiled dumplings and the noodles was superb in every case. We loved the kimchee (made with western cabbage, oddly enough), which screamed for a little white rice so we ordered a two-person serving.

Bill for four people: $25 before tax and tip. I call that a bargain for a state-of the art Sino-carb experience. The service: not effusive, but not unfriendly either. For this kind of place, just right. I'll return...

On a previous re-con mission alone, I had their black bean sauce noodles and while I liked the noodles, the "black bean gravy" with the noodles was first exhilarating with its aroma, but by the bottom of the bowl this over-thickened gravy wore thin, and made me think that in the kitchen, the water left over from the initial soak of black beans (to remove the salt) is then cornstarched and recycled as "gravy." But I'm only guessing here. Perhaps I should try the dry version for a dollar more since I'd like more black bean flavor, with its lovely blend of salt and fermenty tartness.

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