On June 20, I stopped by Saltwater Bakeshop at its new brick-and-mortar location in San Mateo's Kitchentown, lured by previous IG images of KA. But alas, on Kouign Amann Day, none were produced here.
Not wanting to leave empty-handed, I bought the seasonal Nectarine Danish, $4.50, and a Saltwater Country Loaf, $8. The exquisite Danish would turn out to be the best pastry of the day, beating out the KA that I purchased at two other bakeries. Layers of airy, crisp pastry saturated with butter richness, the thinnest veil of glaze over shingles of perfectly ripe nectarine, and the silken pastry cream made this Danish a stand-out and a masterpiece of lamination. The country loaf was no slouch either. Baked to the darkest possible to be just shy of burnt, the well-developed crust made a resounding crunch giving way to chewy, nutty-tasting and pungently sour well-hydrated crumb. This made wonderful toast.
Saltwater Bakeshop @ Kitchentown Cafe
1007 Howard Ave.
San Mateo, CA. 94401
Also available at San Rafael and Fort Mason farmers markets
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