The prepartions at Salts seem fairly rustic, with straightforward flavour combinations. A lovely reflection of the orange gold fields on the painting in the middle of the room; in the country like atmosphere of the dining room, that painting is almost like a window.
I loved the thinly sliced potato that is wrapped around the black truffle "souffle", its clean flavour and crispy texture contrast well with the slightly musky fontina black truffle paste. It's not light enough to be a souffle, but it was nice all the same. I could only wish for an even muskier note from the black truffles. Lovely with a glass of their South African Sauvignon Blanc, very lightly citrusy followed by minerally tones at the end.
Duckling with a blood orange gastrique comes in a stack of rather tender pink breast meat and a leg with good crispy skin. The update on carnard a l'orange is well conceived, using tangy blood orange to cut the richness of the fatty bird. String beans are great with duck (reminds me of the duck with bread salsa and string beans I last had at Chez Panisse Cafe), and dou miao (pea greens) add a more emerald leafy dimension. The butternut squash puree is also a natural match for duck. A pruny jammy zinfandel went well with this dish.
A cider apple cake could be more moist, but dipping it in the twos sauces, a cider caramel sauce and a vanilla sauce, took care of everything. Different degrees of apple when juxtaposed to the soft cooked apple pieces beneath the cake. A good dessert.
On the whole, while not the best meal I've ever had, it was enjoyable, satisfying and very worthwhile. Certainly had no complaints. Wonder if anyone has tried the rabbit sausage or the venison.
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