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Boston Area Cambridge

Salts, near Kendall Sq., Cambridge

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Restaurants & Bars 5

Salts, near Kendall Sq., Cambridge

Limster | May 27, 2005 02:22 AM

Sensitive, careful and labour-intensive cooking, subtle flavours, exquisite plating.

A curry sauce on the rabbit appetizer feels more homey than sophisticated to one from S E Asia, but it has the requisite depth. Delicately textured agnolotti rest on a bed of pulled rabbit, tender threads holding on the the sauce. Well integrated with the sorrel garnish. A delightful little rack of rabbit, very French Laundry-esque in style and taste.

The trumpet mushroom dusting on the lamb is subtle and pleasant, the lamb full of gentle flavour. The spring bounty is apparent on the plate, from smooth jade green fava (or edamame?) beans, graceful curls of wild asparagus, pretty petals from edible flowers, to judicious bites of root vegetables and tiny fried potato(?) puffs. This is a kitchen that is in touch with nature. A mild, sweet garlic puree is lovely with the lamb and a demi-glace-type reduction. Strangely the combination reminds me vaguely of baked beans. :)

Cheeses show excellent conditioning, and are well matched with quince paste, honeycomb and toast almonds.

The lemon souffle tart is a gorgeous cloud, full of penetrating lemon sweetness, playing warm against the cold, dense, frozen lemon curd, an artful contrast of temperature and texture. Lifted lightly by a mint sauce and paired nicely with a side of blackberries and raspberries.

An excellent meal by any account, if very slightly pricey on the whole in comparison to places of similar calibre ($86 for the above sans tip, but including a glass of wine). Portions are on the small side, permitting a cheese course.

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