Lured in by the 20% discount offer for June, this week I had lunch at Rustic, the restaurant at Francis Ford Coppola Winery.
https://www.facebook.com/CoppolaWine/...
This was my first time in the restaurant. I opted for a table outdoors under the pergola.
Here's the view toward the east.
The complimentary pettole were served in an oil-stained paper bag.
The chewy pettole are fried in olive oil, then flecked with sea salt. I enjoyed them with a bit of the house hot sauce.
The menu traces the recipe for its Caesar salad back to San Francisco's Caesar Grill. It was located in the Sentinel Building that now houses Coppola's Cafe Zoetrope. The Caesar dressing includes raw egg and all the richness it brings. Crisp romaine was liberally coated with the dressing and finely grated cheese. Croutons and the optional anchovy filet completed the composition. I enjoyed every bite.
With a wood-burning oven in the center of the room, ordering pizza here seemed to be a must. I tried the Pizza Luigino, essentially a Margherita with added oregano. This was overbaked on the top, drying out the rim of the crust.
The bottom was too blonde for Neapolitan style. The crust was crispy rather than tender, and some spots turned brittle and cracker-like. Sauce was applied too heavily, weighing down the paper thin crust. Besides all of these faults, it came to the table barely warm with the cheese already congealing.
No wine for me this time, ordering ice tea instead. Due to a service issue, the beverage charge was removed from my bill. Still, with tax and tip, my lunch came to $30 after discount.
I can recommend the Caesar, but the pizza and iced tea were below average. Though Rustic is one of the few restaurants in a vineyard setting, the trade-off of food quality for the view is not worth it to me.
We ate dinner at Rustic just over a year ago (May 2015), lured by the veal chop which is always on the menu. Too cold to sit out on the patio but it did look lovely. Not quite as spectacular as Auberge/Rutherford but certainly not as expensive either, LOL.
Stuffed mushroom caps had only breadcrumb filling, no cheese or cream but were nonetheless tasty. A good, very light starter. The chops were very beefy but nonetheless good. They are grilled and served with just a few grilled veggies – carrots, asparagus, and cipollini onions. There is a small amount of Romesco sauce on the plate. It's the genuine article, too; roasted sweet Italian red peppers ground with bread and almonds. However, Coppola's passion for food apparently extends to grilling times, and medium-rare doesn't exist in Europe. If you want that, order your chop medium.
Not the greatest veal chop in the world, but well above the disaster Monti's/SRosa served us May 2016, and only a half-level below Cole's Chop House/Napa. So a good deal for the price, we thought. Coffee is Illy, which we enjoy. The Italian cream puffs were certainly not up to Ca'Momi, who makes our fav, but the ricotta filling impressed us. We don't usually like this filling, but Rustic did an excellent job with it. The ricotta was fresh and unusually smooth; the orange flavor was very light, more a whisper than a shout. The chocolate was in very fine pieces but was not flaky shavings, so it didn't melt into the ricotta and turn it into sweet chocolate cheese.
Our summary:
Rustic is not a great restaurant; Coppola talks a better game than he cooks, LOL. But he's a passionate Italian, and that passion makes Rustic more appealing than we thought it would be. It isn't the elegant simplicity of Il Cortile/PRobles, nor the lively "we live in the neighborhood" feel of an old North Beach restaurants.
Rustic does have those little touches that remind Boomers like us of a time when it was gourmets, not 'foodies', who appreciated great food, wine and service; when it was more important that food taste good than it be Instagrammable-perfect. From the briskly efficient waiters who assume you really don't care what their name is – and we don't – to the red buttonhole embroidered in one corner of the country-casual (and large) napkin, which enables a man to fasten the napkin to a shirt button so it doesn't keep falling off (designed to protect those all-important expensive silk ties; remember those? but it works for polo/Henley tees, too :)), Rustic is a casual restaurant where the owner's passion drives attention to the smallest quirky details.
It was a good meal. Not a great meal, nor a memorable one in the way Bouchee or Il Cortile or Etoile have provided us. Yet it was charming, and because we weren't expecting that, Rustic scores more highly with us than its food normally would.
We liked it, and we'll return. It isn't a "must do" but instead, a "yes, that would be a good place to try again." Not many of these "B" restaurants make the cut with us, especially when we've got so many "A" list places, as well as new restaurants to visit.
Part of our enjoyment was also the museum. It was very enjoyable to go through it, and of course the highlight is that magnificent Tucker sedan! Although I'm the car lover and my DH is not, he was wowed by the sheer beauty of its lines.
Details:
Rustic: Francis's Favorites, @Coppola Winery
300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, CA
https://ffcp.s3.amazonaws.com/fcw/din...
Yesterday was the start of Sonoma County Restaurant Week. With blue skies and temperatures above 70-degrees, I decided to return to Rustic for an outdoor table to enjoy the view. And to order the $15 lunch offering.
After this visit, I'm still all about the Caesar salad. It is my favorite version. The pettole were not warm when served. The piadina filled with spinach, mortadella and pickled onions on chewy flatbread spread with hummus was good enough. The spinach was stringy and slices of mortadella should have been separated instead of being served in a stuck-together stack.
Not crazy about the Paper Plane cocktail, $14. Too bland and not much character, so I'll try to remember to not order cocktails here.
Service was better this time, so that's an improvement. With tax and tip, my lunch tab was $37. Not enough value for me, even with the vineyard and mountain vistas.
We visited Rustic in 2015 and again in 2017, solely because they are the only restaurant we know in the SFBA that keeps a veal chop on the menu. It's not great quality - more to the baby beef side - but is decently handled to European-style doneness; i.e., "medium" is what we know as "medium rare".
In 2015 the chop was good, but in 2017 it was bland and uninteresting. A shame because the 2017 chop came with beautifully roasted veggies and a knock-out romesco sauce.
My spouse adored the Mamarella hot sauce made in house and bought a couple of bottles to bring home.
A summary of our two visits:
"....Spouse found the menu at Rustic very odd, which is how most view it. Coppola has put in what he likes, and with his world travels it is mostly but not exclusively Italian-American. Bastilla jostles with pizza, Marrakesh lamb snarls at soppressata, and an Asian dressing salad perches oddly next to a Caesar. This globe-trotting doesn't seem to allow the kitchen to focus well, although the criticisms since opening have apparently been shrugged off since nothing has ever changed. FFC has been part of Hollywood for too long not to have developed a suitably thick skin about what other people think.
Coppola talks a better game than he cooks, LOL. But he's a passionate Italian, and so Rustic has odd little touches that remind Boomers like us of a time when it was gourmets, not 'foodies', who appreciated great food, wine and service. From the brisk old-style waiters who assume you really don't care what their name is – and we don't – to the red buttonhole embroidered in one corner of the country-casual (and large) napkins, which enables a man to fasten the napkin to a shirt button so it doesn't keep falling off (designed to protect those all-important expensive silk ties; remember those?), Rustic is a casual restaurant where the owner's passion drives attention to the smallest quirky details.
It’s just a shame that great view doesn’t have the food to match. "
Another different but very good veal chop is the Veal Chop Parmigiana at Lococos at Railroad Square in Santa Rosa. Lococos is classic old school Italian. The closest place to NYC Little Italy (in the old days) in Sonoma County.
Be sure to set a reservation and even then seating can be a bit chaotic :) but its an experience.
The veal chop parm is excellent as is most of the menu.
Tom, thanks for bringing up Lococo's. I'll have to try the veal chop next. Best calamari fritti I've ever had is served there. https://www.chowhound.com/post/calama...
I got a chuckle from your description of your visit in 2016. Agree, like being in Umberto's Clam House on Mulberry St. Veal Chop Parm is expensive but is literally two meals for me and more for my wife.
Interesting that you first visited in 2006. Not many restaurants can make it for 14 years including the 2008+ financial crisis which caused so many to close.
As I mentioned, you need some patience if you go at peak dinner time as the combination of reservations and walk ins can sometimes clash :)
Cool, thanks for the recommendation to Lococo's! Y's photos look like classic Italian-American, which should please spouse. Now if I could just get all our scheduled remodeling projects completed, we could return to our usual travel schedule, ggrrrrrrr......
Dying to get back to Sonoma; could only do a brief 2-day at the end of January. Most of our six days was spent in Napa this time. We tried some new (to us) places so I should really write up a summary. Another item on the to-do list, LOL.
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