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Harters | May 31, 201501:26 PM    

Mughli really is a standout from the albeit dwindling number of identikit curry houses along Wilmslow Road. There’s a “proper” menu full of items you won’t generally see elsewhere.

Samosa chaat was a good start. Well balanced between the crispness of the samosa and the soft mushiness (I mean this in a good way) of the vegetables. Flavours were also well balanced with a nice kick from chilli and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds adding sweet/sour. Pav bhaji was also pretty good, although I know a place local to me that does it better – but it was a comforting mush of vegetables that worked with the crisp bread.

For mains, a dish only called “Mumbai” was claimed to be fashioned on one at the Brisk Cafe on the Mumbai-Pune expressway. Maybe it is, maybe it isn’t. Mercifully, they don’t claim it to be “authentic”. It’s a slightly sweetened spinach dish with mixed vegetables. My partner liked this. I thought it was too sweet.

“Kulchi” was claimed as a Lahori speciality of minced lamb with tomato and onion. Now at this point, I shall blame the restaurant lighting or, rather, lack of it, for me not reading the menu properly. If I had, then I would have spotted that the lamb was mixed with chicken boti. I am never convinced that “two protein” dishes work and I have no idea if such is, indeed, traditional in South Asian dishes. I wouldn’t have ordered it had I spotted it. That said, I picked out the chicken chunks to eat first and they had been nicely cooked – still moist. That left the lamb which I thought was damn good.

As for carbs, rice was excellent as was the tandoori roti (although we prefer it when it's a bit crisper).

So, for somewhere to eat along the Curry Mile, I’d certainly recommend it. But, truth be told, I’d find it hard to drive past two or three places in my own postcode area to get there.

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