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Restaurants & Bars 6

Rosewater report

Tom Philpott | Apr 16, 2002 05:28 PM

Great meal at Rosewater last night. The fresh veggie season hasn't even kicked into gear, and the chef there is already working wonders with great ingredients.

the highlight was the ricotta gnocchi. Feather-light puffs bursting with potato and riccotta flavor, surrounded by a cistrusy sauce of grilled spring onions and fresh favas. Every bite had a new dimension, and it was one of those dishes whose passing you lament even as your fork can't stay away.

The cumin-laced duck timbale was also very good, as was a sald of beets, watercress, and other greens. It's so easy to do a great salad at home that restaurants often disappoint. Not this time. Everything was very fresh, and it was deftly dressed as well.

For dessert, we had the panna cotta surrounded by pears, and once again, excellent.

The first time I tried Rosewater, more than a year ago, I thought it lacked luster for the price. After this time, I'm looking forward to going back when all the Jersey and upstate farms are doing their thing.

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