Hey all. My wife and I were in Rome for 5 days May. This report is about a month late, but I wanted to provide feedback here nonetheless since this board was super helpful for trip planning. Here’s where we ate:
Enoteca Cavour 313 - one of the oldest wine bars in Rome, with full menu. Had Carpaccio with basil salsa verde, parmesan, peppers. Very good.
Da Augusto - Piazza de' Renzi, 15 PH: 06 580 3798. In Trastevere. This was a favorite… Some Italian friends brought us there for dinner. We had to wait in line for an hour outside… they don’t take reservations, nor do they even have a waiting list. It’s the honor system, and you just line up by the door. This place was packed all night. It was simple food, with very few ingredients in each dish. Not-too-sweet deserts, including the best tiramisu I’ve ever had. Awesome rigatoni, very memorable in it’s simplicity and perfection. The best tripe I've ever had. Here’s someone else’s blog about this place: http://tamarindandthyme.wordpress.com...
Caffe Propaganda - near the Colosseum on Via Claudia. +39 0694534255. Trendy gastro-bistro. Food looked great, but we were full so we just had cocktails. Had a great Caipirana, and a nice champagne cocktail.
Beppe e i suoi Formaggi - Jewish quarter. http://www.beppeeisuoiformaggi.it/ It’s a cheese shop with a restaurant on the side. Best lunch we had in Rome, hands down. Best cheese plate of my life. Had a Goat cheese plate that was revelatory, anchovies with a special butter of some sort; duck & foie terrine w/ a bitter greens salad, and a bottle of Umbrian wine. There was even an amazing bread served that contained orange peel and anise. Very cool.
L’Asino d’Oro - Monti District. Via del Boschetto, 73. “Umbrian Soulfood”. Great… very homestyle. Had lamb stewed with artichoke that tasted like someone’s grandma made it; also had wild boar in a chocolate & cinnamon sauce that was like an italian mole. The proscuitto app with almonds had a balsamic reduction that was a tad overly sweet. Very nice amuse of mashed potato w/ cheese & olive oil. Yes they had donkey on the menu- a classic Umbrian food. I was chicken but would love to hear how it is.
Hotel Locarno - via della penna 22. Charming bar with a nice patio. Had the best negroni of the trip there, although it wasn’t cheap. Good spritz (aperol) too.
Osteria Dell'arco - Piazza Savona, 5. near Porta Pia. osteriadellarco.it. Had a gorgeous starter of a sardine wrapped in leek. Great Artichoke soup, with fava and fresh pea. Had a nice large pasta (almost udon sized), with bacon and asparagus & pecorino. Also had a saltimbocca w/ salad of bitter greens, which came with fruit (strawberry/kiwi/melon). Dessert was an icecream with an eggnog flavor (for lack of a better description) and berries.
Here’s some Bourdain-depicted places we also hit:
Pizzarium - pizzarium.fi. Back side of the Vatican. A+. Had awesome combos, including Burrata & Spicy Salami from Naples; prosciutto, mushroom, mozzarella & garlic. It isn’t thin crust, it’s more like California artisanal crust.
Roma Sparita - In Trastevere. romasparita.com Hard to get a reservation… it was fully booked when we tried to drop in.. Had very good Cacio e Pepe; ok fried zucchini flowers w/ anchovy & cheese, and fantastic buffalo mozzarella.
Frachetta Romana. Via del Pigneto, 68. iporchettoni.com. This is the awesome pork place from the Bourdain episode. Well worth the trip out of the way since you can get 100g of porchetta for €2. They had horse too, but the porchetta looked too good to skip.
Gelateria dei Gracchi - gelateriadeigracchi.com. Great gelato is everywhere, so we didn’t know if it was worth it to seek this one out particularly, but it was good nonetheless. Flavors we had were lemon, rice&honey, wild strawberry, and regular strawberry.
In summary, we had many good meals. However the ones I'll remember the longest will be Da Augusto, Beppe e i suoi Formaggi, and perhaps Frachetta Romana.
Please pardon my spelling/typos! Hope someone finds this hasty report helpful!