Thursday, January 1 and our last day in Rome. It was a relaxed day with seemingly everyone in the city strolling around with no particular purpose After a few hours of dropping into churches they started to close, so we decided to get serious about lunch. We had walked by HOSTARIA DA NERONE’s closed door a couple of times and thought they might be open. This time I called to check they had room and we hiked over there. Boy the place was packed but they squeezed us in with good humor all around and we had a really good Roman lunch in a crowd of jolly, eccentric people from the cheerful host to a table of elderly Englishwomen to an older gentleman who kept asking or moscardini (with no success). I enjoyed a wonderful dish of baccala in umido, tender with onions,tomato, pinenuts and raisins, preceded by a very proper spaghetti in white clam sauce. Husband had bland vegetable soup (does anyone in Rome offer a realty good version??) followed by lentils and cotechino while daughter had very good gnocchi in ragu . We all shared what turned about to be a quite good mixed antipasto plate and a slice of ricotta tart.
@maureen fant, if you know how Nerone make the ragu served with their gnocchi Id love to know. It did not seem like an all beef version to me but the dish really epitomized the rich but somehow restrained style that we so much enjoy. We were really happy with this final restaurant meal of this Rome visit!
Shoppingwise we enjoyed several pastries from Regoli in Esquilino and pangiallo and panpepato from Passi in Testaccio. Good bread seemed to be a little thin on the ground in Esquilino - the big public market was interesting with a great assortment of south asian specialties less for us. There were some good booths offering puntarelle and other good italian greens.