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California Road Trip Trip Report Summer

Road Trip Summer 2006: Part 2 - Mendocino, Ft. Bragg & Humboldt (long drive, long report)


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Road Trip Summer 2006: Part 2 - Mendocino, Ft. Bragg & Humboldt (long drive, long report)

Carb Lover | Aug 18, 2006 07:05 AM

Continuing on our journey northward, Y and I head up Hwy 1 from Pt. Reyes towards Mendocino, our destination for the night. You can read about Part 1 from Santa Cruz to Pt. Reyes/Marshall here:

So the coastline was gorgeous that day, but Y almost had a meltdown when a wide load halted traffic to 10 MPH when we weren't even close to Mendocino. I calmed him down and told him to go to sleep while I drove...

Due to slow traffic and stopping at so many scenic points, we didn't get into Mendocino til about 8pm. Checked into our hotel (Mendocino Hotel), freshened up, and began the hunt for dinner. Wanted to have a mellow dinner at some place like the North Coast Brewing Co. in Ft. Bragg, but when we called they said they'd be closing in about 20 min. We wandered around the Main St. area and considered the charming-looking Moosse Cafe but ultimately weren't that hungry or in the mood for that kind of Cal-cuisine menu.


By that time, it was about a quarter til 9pm and our hotel restaurant stopped serving at 9pm so we hightailed it back to make sure we'd at least get fed; we feared that most places closed early on a Tues. night. The place has a more formal dining room and also a more casual bar and lounge seating area good for a quick bite or family dining. We plopped down in front of the cozy fireplace and ordered drinks to start. Me--a glass of Navarro Pinot Noir (since I've read good things about Navarro on the boards). A strong dose of North Coast Brewery's Rasputin Stout for the old man. Started to relax; however, the wine tasted a bit boring and the worst part was the excessively curved lip of the glass that made it impossible to sip!! Not really a beer drinker myself, but I liked the chocolate finish on the stout.

Not being that hungry, I ordered their house salad w/ Mendocino mustard dressing (about $8) and Y got the shaved prime rib sandwich w/ jus and fries (about $13). The salad was better than I expected for a hotel house salad, but the dressing was too sweet and the nuts tasted weird. Y's prime rib sandwich was not bad, but not great either. It was a very generous serving, but he declared the meat to not taste all that fresh. The beef was very tender and thinly-shaved, and the fresh-cut fries were pretty good.

Not a stellar meal or a place that I'd recommend based on this one experience, but there's something to be said for eating in your hotel after a long and slow-going drive.

On Albion St.
Veebee's post here:

We got up early and had free coffee at the hotel before walking along the bluffs. Blue sky w/ not one shred of fog. Our hotel package didn't include any breakfast, and after seeing the McCallum House and their menu, I wish we had stayed there since a night's stay does include breakfast. For future reference, how's the food here?

After reading veebee's rave linked above, I was intent on getting some morning pastries at the Garden Bakery. Tucked into an alleyway, it can be easy to miss. The place had a very homey, down-to-earth feel and everything had that imperfect homemade look (in a good way!). My eyeballs bulged at the sight of fresh, huge cinnamon rolls, so we got one ($3.75). Appreciated that the counter girl asked if we liked ones that were more crispy or chewy on the outside (crispy please) and then hand-picked one from the mound. Y got a pastrami and cheese filled croissant (about $3), although the berry danishes looked better to me.

The roll was very fresh and slightly yeasty tasting and had a nice balance of sweetness and spice. While the cream cheese-based icing tasted good itself, I think I prefer traditional icing for cinnamon rolls. The outside was indeed crispy but the further I unravelled, the more enjoyably chewy and soft it became. The dough could have been a touch puffier for my taste. And yay, no raisins! Croissant was just ok.

Other foodie-related stops in Mendocino:

Stopped by here to pick up something to give to my folks whom we were staying w/ in Humboldt County that night. Got a pre-packaged box of nuts and chews for about $9 for 8 pieces. Was disappointed to find out upon tasting later that they were cream fillings instead! Doesn't hurt to double check or just make your own box. Are the truffles here as good as the locals say?

Jam shop (forget name) on Main St.
Shop owner said they are known for their olallieberry jam, but I didn't like it that much after sampling...too sweet and one-note. Instead got a jar of sour cherry which had nice cherry chunks and isn't a common flavor.

401 N. Main

So after driving north to Fort Bragg and exploring the town a bit, we stumbled upon Laurel Deli near the Skunk Train Station. I remembered reading something positive about it, so we decided to eat there. We shared a cup of the clam chowder, a small salad, and a reuben w/ macaroni salad. The chowder was too thick and starchy for my liking, but I liked the smokiness from the bacon. Not a whole lot o' clams that I can remember.

The best part of the meal was the reuben and mac salad. The sandwich was made w/ corned beef from Roundman's Smokehouse nearby. The beef was on the lean side, but it was tasty and well-sliced. Pumpernickel was perfectly griddled on the outside, but it could have used a little more sauerkraut. Russian dressing tasted housemade. Mac salad made w/ little pasta shells instead of curved tubes was very eggy and creamy and was brightened up w/ fresh red onion and diced pickle.

Service was friendly and efficient, and I wish I had had room to try some of their pie. What's their best dessert?

Other foodie-related stops in Ft. Bragg:

More varied and interesting selection compared to jam store in Mendocino, and overall, I preferred the products here. We bought the olallieberry jam and hot pepper jelly. Everything just tasted spot on and controlled...not too sweet. Can't wait to use the pepper jelly in my late summer cooking!

Small, tidy shop w/ smoked and fresh meat products. None of the smoked products truly stood out for me, but the fresh hanger steak looked so incredible! If we had a rental w/ a kitchen, I know where I'd stop in for meat...

So we decided to take Hwy 128 to 253 through Anderson Valley to connect to the 101 to take us up to Humboldt for the night at my folks' place. It was on the late side, so we only had the chance to stop at a few places.

I've really been into bubblies lately, so I thoroughly enjoyed myself here. Everything tasted good, but the 1998 L'Ermitage Brut (about $44) was the most captivating. Very creamy, fine bubbles, a mouthful of luxury. What the helpful and knowledgeable young woman termed as a "celebration" wine. We didn't buy that but instead opted for their more limited selection Pinot Noir at around $22 a bottle. $6pp for tasting; $3 can be applied to any wine purchase.

Just down the road is Navarro. I was very excited to taste here since I've read so many consistent praises for this winery and their products. I believe they are best known for their Gewurtz. Unfortunately, I was underwhelmed w/ their wine offerings. They had a huge list of tastings (around 10-13), so we were selective since we had an evening of driving ahead and asked them to choose their best. In general, I found their wines to be thin and not very interesting on my palate. Had so many wines, but nothing stood out. Compared to Roederer, they had much more traffic, so they're clearly popular. Tasting room was a bit cramped, but the grounds outside are lovely. Friendly staff and free tasting.

ANDERSON VALLEY BREWING CO., junction of 128 and 253, Boonville
Stopped in here for a quick taste. Y ordered a taste of one of their abbey ales ($1.75?). He proclaimed it decent but nothing remarkable. Falls into his "beer kit" category. I liked it ok, but not as good as something like Chimay for me.

So we finally hit the 101 and were intent on stopping at City of Ten Thousand Buddhas in Ukiah for dinner. We were crushed to find the restaurant closed at 6:15 on a Wed. night. So we console ourselves by knowing that a nice hot bowl of pho will be waiting at the parents' place when we putt into town.

The pho for dinner hit the spot, and lunch the next day was a plate of mom's banh cuon w/ storebought Viet bologna. We then head out to Trinidad to visit Patrick's Point State Park.

Family-owned shop that's been around for a long time. I remember Dommy! mentioning how her SO brought some smoked salmon from here for her. The shopkeeper was very talkative and proud about their product. The smoked scallops looked intriguing, but we bought a small piece of their American Indian style salmon jerky w/ black pepper to nibble on. Smoked using alderwood, I liked the flavor but Y and I both agreed that it was a tad too salty.

I'm kinda embarrassed to report on this, but hey, it was a meal. I would have rather had my mom's bun rieu for dinner, but well, my dad wanted to show us the relatively new casino in the nearby town where I finished my junior high years. My dad loves AYCE buffets and he and my mom never eat out, so it was a treat I was willing to indulge him in. They have reported that the Fri. night seafood buffets are pretty good, and you can bet all the townsfolk come out for that!

We went on a Thurs. night and my dad said the selection was skimpier than usual. Cost was about $12pp. It was beef brisket night, so they sorta had a southern food theme going. The brisket was pretty decent (cook said it was smoked for 16 hrs?), and I did like the pulled pork which reminded me of carnitas sans the Mexican seasonings. Everything else was mediocre buffet fare. The highlight was when I stuck $1 in a slot machine on the way out and won $5 and cashed out for the night!

We saw soooo many casinos in NorCal and Southern Oregon, and I wondered if any of them might have exceptional food. Comments?

So we head north on 101 the next morning (Fri) to explore the Southern Oregon coastline. Getting further into the redwoods and into more remote territory, the feeling is a bit eerie but also spiritual w/ all of the American Indian territory. Just north of the mouth of the Klamath River, we stopped to sample and buy some authentic American Indian salmon jerkey from a Yurok Tribe vendor. Like Katy's, alderwood is used, but we bought the kind that was smoked low and slow for around 5 days instead of 1.

This stuff was incredible, and made the Katy's version taste relatively weak. Very smoky and meaty w/ an indescribable depth of flavor. Not cheap at $50/lb., but a 6" piece was just about $10 and well worth it. We sampled 4 different kinds, but liked the plain one the best. I was tempted w/ the "salmon candy" that's cured w/ brown sugar. The woman vendor was very open about discussing their smoking methods and local cultural issues.

Photos of this leg of our journey can be viewed here:
Didn't get all shots of the above food, but did include some gratuitous scenery shots for your enjoyment.

Well, now we pass Crescent City and cross over into Oregon. Look for my Oregon report on the PNW board in the next few days...

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