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Restaurants & Bars

Ontario (inc. Toronto)

Review: Tandoori Time, airport area


Restaurants & Bars 4

Review: Tandoori Time, airport area

Alan | Jul 28, 2004 12:24 PM

3 locations, actually, 1727 Albion Road just east of Hwy. 27 (this is the one I went to, and is the 'flagship' store), 848 Burnhamthorpe Rd. W, Mississauga, and 30 Melanie Dr., Brampton. Their sign said they are a "Pakistani" cuisine restaurant, but I confess that I am not well-versed enough to distinguish the regional differences between it and what I generically call "Indian" cuisine. No offence intended.

I went here for lunch as I was on a chowconnaissance in the area. First impression was "Hm. What used to be a kentucky fried chicken outlet (it has the 'lighthouse' thingy still on the roof). Now, Tandoori Time. Fun name." A good first impression: the place was spotless and nicely appointed. Indeed, they have a window looking into the kitchen which is right behind the tandoor oven and, if I recall, a grill... this is risky in the extreme, but it looked like they washed the window twice a day: perfectly clean. There was only one other table occupied when I went (at 1:15 pm on a Tuesday) but a large party of locals showed up just as I started my meal.

I'm not up on the lingo, alas, so I can't describe exactly the dishes or spices that were used, but I decided to have an order of vegetable samosas (2 for $1.99, served with that 'ketchup-y' stuff) and their lunch special platter (6.99, your choice of meat or non-meat). The platter had two meat curries on it, one spicier than the other, a disappointing garden salad (iceberg lettuce with a couple of slices of tomato... but I could have (and will next time) order the onion salad instead), some yogourt, and a large naan fresh out of the tandoor. The naan was delicious: crispy outside, fluffy inside, brushed with butter (?) and sprinkled with sesame seeds (?). It is the best naan I've had in recent memory. The curries were also exceptional: they were moderate-to-moderately-hot (to my tastebuds), but the heat was slow burn and, unlike many "indian" foods, the heat did NOT take away the taste: they were rich and delicious, pleasing texture, fresh on the tongue and amongst the better curries I've ever had. Being lunch, the portions seemed small-ish to the eye, but at the end of the meal, I found myself over-stuffed and indeed had a bit to take away.

The samosas were OK, but not exactly to my liking: I prefer them with a crispier outside, where these were just semi-crispy, almost more bread-like with a crust. Sort of. Very tasty though.

So, all in all, certainly one of my prouder finds as I scour this corner of the city for suitable lunch spots. I will most definitely go back, possibly in short order, as the experience was quite exceptional to my still somewhat semi-educated taste buds. But I do know what I like, and I liked Tandoori Time very much.


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