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Review: Les Papilles: 7/14/11

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Review: Les Papilles: 7/14/11

redgirl | Jul 14, 2011 04:33 PM

reserved this morning for tonite... bastille day in paris. we were given a reservation but a bit early. we ended up being the 1st ones in - geez, when you walk in the whole place just smells of something roasted and wonderful. anyway, we were solos for just a few minutes and we had a change to talk to the owner while he described the menu and we asked him to choose a wine for us. (morgan 2010 - an organic about 30eu. lightly chilled it was perfect for me).
i'll try to do some justice but suffice it to say that i was beaming from ear to ear when we left. everything (with one exception) hit all my happiness buttons.
soup: lukewarm (his description) endive soup in the terrine (which also floated a drop of oil in the stock) poured into the bowl which contained slivered endives, lardons, bits of parsley and chives and pieces of blue cheese (that was the only thing i didn't love but my husband did...i have a low tolerance for chunks of blue) and a dash of red pepper dusting the edge of the bowl.
main: slow-roasted lamb shanks (when he said this i grinned ear to ear since this is my master dish every holiday and i LOVE lamb shanks...just my favorite thing ever) in a thick beefstock/lamb reduction on a bed of vegetables including whole cloves of garlic in their skins, onions, snow peas, and roasted red peppers. the sauce was velvety-thick and glossy. i had a chance to speak to the chef, thom, and he told me that he adds the beef bones to the stock after the roasting and then - having removed the shanks - slowly reduces the stock all the way down to a velvety thickness.
cheese: honestly, i don't know soft - maybe a brie. with a bit of honey and chives on top, a drop of dressed lettuce on the side and a small quenelle of apricot compote on the side. (i would have preferred more salad!)
dessert: peach panna cotta. which doesn't do it justice. layered like a parfait, there was muddled peach pieces on the bottom with thick peach sludge and then the panna cotta in the middle and a peach syrup with sesame seeds on top. it was outstanding
the place was packed. the service was lovely. and i really loved having the chance to have a good conversation with the chef in his teeny tiny kitchen (i was outside the teeny tiny kitchen).
2 set meals and a bottle and 2 coffees were 109.50
we're probably going back next week.

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