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Review: First Bijoux Visit Since Change

Mike C. Miller | Apr 16, 2012 06:04 PM

Had my first meal at Bijoux since the change in formats. I'm very pleased (and pleasantly surprised) to report that the quality of the food has not declined at all. It is still one of Dallas' top restaurants.

First, a copy of the new menu is on line:


This was not the exact menu that they had on Friday night, but it was very close and the format was the same. I had two appetizers and a main. One of the appetizers was a progressive tasting of oysters, each with a different style sauce mignonette. This was very good and light. The second appetizer was a chevre and leek agnolotti with collard greens, and lardons. Also nice, although perhaps not quite up to the standards of the oysters. My girlfirend had the beet salad with goat cheese, pecans, arugula, and red beet gelato. It was out of this world good.

For our mains, the GF had lemon sole, which was very good. I had the scallops with green peas, which was served in a warm tomato coulis. It was outstanding.

There is now a one page wine list on the back of the menu with modestly priced wines, all of which are available by the glass or by the bottle. I was initially disappointing when I thought that was all that was available as almost all were quite a step down from their previous wine list. However, their previous wine list is still intact and is now called the reserve list (although the one on their web sight is somewhat dated). We paired our choices with an excellent St. Aubin 1er Cru 2005 from J.M. Boillot. It was a good match for all, but especially for the scallops.

One final note. The overall quality of the cooking hasn't declined one bit. I recently had scallops at three fine restaurants -- l'Atelier de Joel Robuchon and Maceo', both in Paris, and also at Bijoux. I thought that the scallops at Bijoux were at least the equal of those at Maceo' and better than those at l'Atelier and my GF thought Bijoux's scallops were the best of the three. So the move to the less formal menu hasn't really hurt the quality of the cooking here at all.

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