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Reporting on a week of chow in Paris

plafield | May 25, 2017 02:01 PM

We ate fabulously. Here are the main attractions:
Dinners:
Mazanay 46 Rue de Montmorency: Everything was spot on. Delicious generous food, real heart in the cooking and the service. Highly recommend.
Comte shortbreads (aperitif)
Entrees: Terrine de foie gras, salad w/ hands of Bhudda citrus dressing, AND wild escargot, salad w/herbed crème fresh
Plates: Black Iberian pork en cru, with carrots, AND Pollack w/ garlic scapes and waterecress , tarragon buerre blanc
Dessert: Vanilla millefuelle AND strawberry charlotte, rhubarb sauce, vanilla daquois
39E menu. 5+ for foie and 3+ for porc

Amarante 4 rue Biscornet: 3 of us for dinner, this was the only place we revisited from last time and it was just as stellar as last time. No bells or whistles, just great product, prepared simply and perfectly.
Entrees: Veal tongue w/ mayo, pied de cochon, white asparagus in butter. Plates: Ris de veau with mashed potato, duck with beets, sole with chickpea fries. Dessert: lemon crème brulee, chocolate mousse. VERY low sugar desserts. 153E for 3 people, 2 glasses of wine one bottle of water.

Chardenoux 1 rue Jules Vallès : Cute, classic bistro. The food was delicious, service was great. 41E menu with no upcharges, we thought the meal a great bargain.
entrees: white asparagus w/ poachd egg and parmesan AND escargot in garlic butter. Plates: steak tartare w/ frites (spicy, mustardy, chunky and very crispy delicious fries) AND cote de pork with spicy Saté sauce with potato puffs. Dessert: pain perdue with pistachio ice cream and fresh raspberries AND vanilla custard sauce filled mini profiterols with fresh strawberries and strawberry sauce.

Jais I wrote a review for in a separate thread. Very simply, the food was gorgeous and delicious and the service was great but lots of cigarette smoke.

Le Chemise 42 Rue de Malte : When we called to confirm the reservation we had made 2 weeks earlier, they had lost the reservation but said they could get us in a little earlier than the time we wanted. We accepted. It’s a tiny little place with very comfy chairs and we were a bit concerned they would be trying to turn our table but while the place filled, no one came in after 9:30. We got off to a stellar start with puff pastry, morels, perfectly cooked soft egg, spinach and cream AND a very delicious foie gras pate with dried fruits and toast points. Then things got very average, very fast. Veal medallions with some kind of foam, with mushrooms and artichokes were fine but needed a sauce since that foam simply disappeared adding nothing to the dish. I had breast of chicken over green asparagus risotto. This also needed a sauce. The chicken was tender and moist but very bland. The risotto was a little gloppy in texture but tasty. There were no flavors or seasonings that added to either dish and while the products themselves were fine, they weren’t stellar enough to carry the dishes to any heights without good saucing or seasoning. For dessert we shared a financier with red fruits coulis and green apple sorbet. The red fruits coulis was simply a drizzle of red on the plate so only a visual element, not a flavor element. The cake was moist and sweet and the sorbet was really good but the whole was nothing to wow over and the serving was quite small. 2 glasses of wine, both very skimpy pours, added to the lack of generosity that seemed to permeate the meal, which wasn’t inexpensive. The pace of the meal was also very rushed and it felt like they were trying to get everyone out fast. They weren’t turning the tables, they just seemed to want to close up early as they were moving all the tables along very quickly, not just us. 2 entrees, 2 plates, 2 glasses of wine, one dessert and one half-bottle of water 115E. It wasn’t a bad meal but with all the choices in Paris, I definitely wouldn’t return.

LUNCH at Les Tablette Jean Nomico 16 Avenue Bugeaud. What can I say? Just stellar from start to finish. Beautiful chic comfortable room, attentive yet not cloying or snooty service, generous and welcoming and absolutely delicious food that’s a total steal for the club lunch. 3 courses for 42E or 3 courses plus wine, cheese, and coffee for 58E. Wow. We began with a nibble of deep fried ricotta and spinach packets soon followed by a luscious cold soup of baby peas with a smoked spring onion custard. Entrees were white asparagus with crab and parmesan crème and beef cheeks ravioli in a parmesan sauce. Mains were pave of cod with potato puree, crispy potatoes and spinach w/ broccoli and lamb shoulder ragu, artichoke hearts, roasted potatoes jus. Paul had a creamy herbed goat cheese (and 3 glasses of wine!) Desserts were chocolate, coffee, tonka bean w/ toasted almond ice cream and strawberries with berry sauce, merenge with confit of tomatoes and strawberry sorbet. Beautiful and delicious petit fours with coffee. 112E. A complete steal.

We also ate a lot of pastry and sandwiches from boulangeries and patisseries. The highlights were: kouign amann and madelaines from Ble Sucre, Creme filled choucettes from Gilles Marchal, strawberry almond gateau from Jaque Genin, Strawberry pistachio creme gateau from Pierre Herme, smoked salmon on a squid ink bun and the strawberry tart from Gontran Cherrier, lemon tart from Pain du Sucre.

A delicious week of eating in Paris.

Le MaZenay,
Amarante,
Le Chardenoux,
Restaurant Le Chemise - République Paris,
Les tablettes de Jean Louis Nomicos,
Blé Sucré,
Pastry Gilles Marchal,
Jacques Genin,
Pain de Sucre (Pâtisserie)
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