I-10 from El Paso to Junction is pretty sparse territory for chowhounds, so we were happy to find Pepe's Cafe, in Ozona, a town which seemed when we stopped there to be almost totally abandoned. But yet there is Pepe's, a funky little Tex-Mex place plastered with rock posters, baseball memorabilia, and the proprietor's own paintings -- don't miss the collage of clippings from 1986, when the owner got in a bit of trouble over a politically charged mural he painted on a city building. Oh, and the food? Perfectly good renditions of the standard dishes -- the guacamole was notably good, everything else just fine. They offer a very satisfying dessert -- bunuelos (here spelled "brunelos"), fried cinnamon tortillas topped with ice cream. All in all, a worthwhile stop on this stretch of highway.
1003 Sheffield Road, Ozona, TX