Reno Chowdown: Delicious foie gras at Fourth Street Bistro

SteveTimko · Aug 15, 2014 18:45:24 UTC

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SteveTimko | Aug 15, 201406:45 PM 2

Foie gras turned up as an issue in a review of Fourth Street Bistro on another web site. Plus foie gras protesters held a demonstration in Reno seeking a ban here like they had in California. A lot of people have never tasted foie gras. So I decided this would be an issue for the Greater Reno Grub and Gripe Group to explore at Fourth Street Bistro. We did and the unanimous verdict: Foie gras is frickin’ delicious.
All four of us who went have had foie gras before. The first two times I tried foie gras I was indifferent. In the hands of an unskilled chef it can be tough with odd liver flavor. Then I had it in Los Angeles at a wine tasting where it was served on top of a steak. Wow. My opinion about foie gras, which is made from goose or duck liver, turned around completely.
I figured if anyone could make good foie gras in Reno it would be the 4th Street Bistro. Foie gras was our first entrée. It was pan seared and we got two pieces served on the center of the plate. It was framed by sprouts and had a strawberry reduction on the plate behind it and slices of bread on both sides.
The taste and texture was exquisite. Like buttah. With a perfectly crispy skin. Like that fat on a good steak that you are glad you ate and didn’t throw away. There was also a mild liver flavor. Quite delicious but also quite rich. RevAndy talked about how he once built a whole dinner around several kinds of foie gras and by the time they got to the entrée they were pretty much foie grased out. I used the bread to soak up the strawberry reduction.
I brought a 1995 Foreau Vouvray moelleux to go with the foie gras. This is a sweet wine with lots of acid. Fourth Street Bistro provides a small glass of Moscato. This is a sweet, slightly sparkling Italian wine. The consensus of the group is that if you were just eating the foie gras, the Vouvray paired best, but if you mixed the foie gras with the strawberry, the Moscato worked best. Vouvray moelleux is not common. Craft Wine and Beer has a 2005 for $30. Corkage at 4th Street Bistro is $20.

Foie gras

Foie gras with 1995 Foreau Vovuray moelleux

Arugula salad

Potato leek soup

Roast duck

Duck confit

Scallops

There was more than foie gras with our meal. My next course was a delicious arugula salad. It was fresh arugula, a soft white cheese called queso fresco, nuts, vinaigrette and figs. I was quite happy with it. RevAndy got the potato leek soup and let me have the last couple of spoonfuls. A light went on and I immediately knew I ordered the wrong dish. The soup was delicious. RevAndy thought it was the best version of potato leek soup he has ever had. I think it’s the best soup I’ve ever tasted in Reno. I don’t know how the chef got the flavors, because when you think of great flavors, neither potatoes nor leeks come to mind.
For entrees, RevAndy and I got roast duck, Mrs. RevAndy got duck confit and Glenn got porcini-dusted scallops over risotto. The duck there is so delicious. Duck, I think, can be an easy dish to screw up but it was tender and moist. There were also some nice fingerling potatoes. It’s an excellent dish and I would recommend it to anyone.
Mrs. RevAndy enjoyed her duck confit. Glenn liked his scallops but had the only misfire in the whole meal. He said his risotto was botched and wondered if anyone tasted it before it came out of the kitchen.
Service was excellent. Our food was served promptly, our plates removed quickly and our water glasses were always full.
Because of the cost, I don’t eat at 4th Street Bistro that often. The foie gras is $24 and the roasted duck was $35. I’ll be eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for dinner for a couple of weeks to pay for it. But if you’re looking for that special meal, it’s a good place to go.
Ironically, trying foie gras became an agenda item with the foie gras protests. Perhaps if the protests continue I will be compelled to try it at other restaurants in Reno.
4th St. Bistro
3065 W 4th St
Reno, NV 89523
(775) 323-3200
http://www.4thstbistro.com/

Craft Wine and Beer

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