Restaurants & Bars 9

A Religious Experience

newhavener07 | Apr 30, 200807:26 AM

The place: Modern Apizza, New Haven
The time: Last night
The Pie: Red sauce with eggplant and sliced tomato, light on the cheese.

The pie is fresh out of the oven, a bit soft at the ends, the the first bite is with fork and knife, eating gingerly to avoid burns. First taste is tomato, an out-of-season fruit coaxed into flavor by the oven, lightly caramelized and sweet, followed by an unctuous rush of eggplant coated in a crisp breading. Bottom note of crust, soft but with a charcoal bite from the oven. Together, a perfect symphony of sweet, tart, oily, crisp, pliant. Eggplant married with tomato in its finest incarnation.
The slice gets even better as you eat toward the crust, the garlicky red sauce asserting itself with a hint of basil, the upper regions of crust biting back with an appealing crunch. Finally, the outer edges of crust, a sublime amalgam of crisp and bready, brushed with garlic, blackened in spots to a carbonized perfection.
Wow, pie of the gods.

(BTW, I'm not taking sides on the pizza wars, just had a great meal)

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