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Restaurants & Bars

Range chicken hor fun soup (aka Pho ga) @ Huang's Kitchen, SF

Melanie Wong | Sep 25, 200710:28 PM     16

Craving pho ga at Turtle Tower on Sunday after reading Dave MP's report, I bided my time until nearly 2pm before heading over to Larkin. Silly me, thinking that there'd be no line at that time --- wrong!

So I wandered a little, stopping to read the white board outside the newish Huang's Kitchen a block away. Top of the board was duck hor fun (rice noodle) soup, then range chicken hor fun soup. Normally, I'd jump for the duck, but having eaten duck the previous two days, I decided to order the range chicken version.

While this place promotes itself as "Chinese Cuisine" and the proprietors are from China and not Vietnam, this was pretty much straight ahead pho ga with the added attraction of being made with fresh rice noodles. This was a very good version, and my request for all dark meat was honored. The serving of tasty free-range chicken, poached and then served off the bone with the firm skin, was quite generous. Chewy, velvety fresh rice noodles, flowed easily through the clean chicken broth without clumping together. The stock was not quite as rich as Turtle Tower's, but still very good with the taste of the bones and just a bit of sweetness in the finish. The bowl was topped with fragrant chopped cilantro and a bit of green onion, and bean sprouts, jalapeno, basil and lemon were served on the side.

Image of Huang's range chicken hor fun soup with accompaniments -
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1159/1...

All in all, a very satisfying lunch that was good to the last drop for $5.50, plus tax and tip. The interior of Huang's is bright and contemporary and a step up from many of the Tenderloin neighbors though not luxe by any means. I'll certainly be back to try more, as this place is good on its own and not just as back up when TT's too busy. The staff spoke Cantonese with each other. Free delivery between 1pm and 9pm, minimum $15.

Anyone else tried it?

-----
Huang's Kitchen
611 Larkin St, San Francisco, CA 94109

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