Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Radius, Financial District, Boston

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Restaurants & Bars 1

Radius, Financial District, Boston

Limster | Feb 19, 2004 12:54 AM

Lunched there last week to the tune of about $70ish/person with 3 courses, a glass of wine, tax and tip. On the whole, very good preparation, neither exceeding nor below expectations. Am definitely intrigued enough to want to sample dinner there in the future, just won't be rushing there right away. Tempered enthusiasm.

A fairly good lobe of sweetbreads, lighted coated with flour. Well matched with the sweet carrots and (assuming I remember correctly) a vegetable puree of some sort. Nice oily drizzle laced with (I think) cumin added another layer of flavour, making the dish a good composition on the whole.

Three elegant pieces of succulent quail, with all the delicate smoky flavours, a touch of game. This is contrasted with the sharp clear vinegar on the dressing that coats a salad of mildly and pleasantly bitter frissee and crisp green beans. The pinot noir chosen by the staff was well suited to this dish, not at all overwhelmed by the acidity of the dressing and providing earthy dark fruit alongside the quail.

Chocolate tasting for dessert has simple components, but were of very high calibre: a rich and slightly moussey chocolate ice cream coated with chocolate, an extraordinary white, milk and dark chocolate mousse, the ambrosial chocolate flavour smoothened suavely by a perfect dose of salt and garnished with a clever chocolate biscuit spoon, a dark liquid rich chocolate tart with beautiful crumb in the crust. Very admirable effort from the pastry kitchen and a highlight for me.

Service was very efficient and knowledgable, with one minor flaw: a poor handover from the door staff to the waitstaff resulted in an appreciably long wait for the menus, my first wait like this in years; in the end I had to signal the waitstaff for menus. Not a significant issue in any case, even if it was somewhat odd.

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