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Restaurants & Bars 4

Radio Milano at City Centre - Two Thumbs UP

Lambowner | Mar 14, 201503:24 PM

We went on a rare date night to the fairly new Radio Milano in City Centre, across Sorella Ct. from Capital Grille and Seasons 52 on Friday. Not sure where the name comes from, but I like it.

It's attached to the Hotel Sorella, and you can use your room number in lieu of payment, so I guess they room service the hotel also. It's in the same second story location as the former Alex's Bistro (of the Brennan family).

Downstairs is a nice cozy bar, which was minimally lively at 7:00 p.m. when we arrived.

As we found when we went upstairs (three flights, so we used the hotel elevator in a separate building, knees, those knees), the restaurant was also pretty empty. Looking across the street from our window-side table, we noticed both the usually packed Capital Grille and Seasons 52 were noticeably inactive, with shared valets chatting and standing. But then we realized it is both spring break and rodeo. If the adults aren't out somewhere with the kids, the babysitters are sure out and about and unavailable.

We ordered cocktails to start, Maker's Mark and Beefeater. The bartender trotted up the stairs to tell us they stock neither, but offered similar substitutes. He then ran back up with our drinks, not maybe the most efficient method if both locations get busy, the restaurant is quite large.

I was disappointed to see the fall/winter menu still in play, with the ubiquitous butternut squash whatevernot featured. That's just me though, I think seasonal affective disorder could be alleviated mightily with less root vegetables and squash.

The food we ordered turned out to be really great, outstanding in fact. We started with a shared house made buratta. Neither of us have had that before, so have I no comparison, but it was really fantastic. A mozzarella shell, filled with a mozzeralla/cream mixture spooned onto hot crusty buttered bread slices. It came in a bowl, nested in arugula and arugula pesto with a strong lemon overtone.

I ordered the ravioli, described as lamb with fall vegetables and cheeses. What was delivered was one really large house made ravioli in a bowl, stuffed full of molten goat and Parmesan cheeses, set atop chunks of slow braised lamb with pieces of what I think were tiny spring zucchini in a rich brown lamb sauce. When I cut into the ravioli, the cheeses ran out and mixed with the lamb sauce in a good way. The lamb was tender and moist, the vegetable was crisp. All around a satisfying dish.

DH ordered the veal cheeks with osso buco broth and creamy polenta. We saw another dish had roasted cauliflower in it and asked if that could be substituted for the polenta, to lower the carb count. They happily did that and the veal, as reported to me was "melt in your mouth" tender. There was a gremolata in the osso buco sauce (parsley, garlic,lemon pesto). Not a whit was left of it.

This place should be full, and maybe it is usually. Lucky us, we chose this night. As we left at 8:30, there were lots more people, and looking on their site later, I saw they have a late night clientele, open until 1:00 a.m., Thursday - Saturday.

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