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Quince is a gem in the making

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Quince is a gem in the making

Victoria Libin | Dec 12, 2003 01:26 AM

Went there for dinner last night with a few friends. It was quite impressive given that they have been open for 3 days. The food hit some really high notes. The menu was mostly Italian in content and presentation since it was divided into first courses consisting of appetizers, second courses consisting of pasta dishes, and third courses consisting of main dishes. Tried the porcini confit, pork loin tonnato, and crostini with nettles and razor clams as appetizers. They were beautifully executed with the razor clam crostini being particularly stellar. The pastas are top notch. We sampled ravioli, agnolotti, and gnocchi. They were light and silky and minimally sauced. The ravioli was my favorite and was stuffed with cauliflower and had a touch of bottarga. The angolotti was done in miniature and was filled with a veal force meat in a butter sage sauce. The gnocchi had nice texture but the oxtail ragu lacked something for my taste. We shared the squab, tripe and monkfish as main courses. The squab was declared to be the best in the area. It is served medium over some braised cabbage with a mosto sauce. The tripe was very tender and braised in the traditional Florentine manner. We ended with a walnut gelato and a chestnut merengetta. Both were excellent. The wine list has some nice selections from Italy, France, Austria and California and markups are reasonable.

The timing of service was a bit off but we expected that and they will improve in no time. It is clear that the owners have a lifetime of restaurant experience because at day 3 they were running a pretty tight operation.

If you enjoy the food at Chez Panisse, Olivetto and Delfina, then you will love Quince.

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