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Windy | Dec 23, 200412:04 AM    

I was over at Desiree today on the way to the extraordinary exhibit of Mayan textiles across the way at the Presidio Officers' Club. I had thought it might be deserted this week, but the museum-goers had it packed by lunch time.

We shared a bowl of winter root vegetables soup, a roast beef sandwich, and an egg salad sandwich (of course). The soup had tiny cubes of celery root, yellow squash, and a bit of creme fraiche. The highlight though, was the miniature herbed biscuits served on the side.

The roast beef was rare and flavorful, served with a slice of ripe tomato and a horseradish cream so good I had to resist licking the bowl. A bit of orzo on the side. Egg salad was perfect, as always.

The woman next to us ordered a grilled vegetarian sandwich and asked to have slices of tomato added to it. It looked so good we were tempted to ask for a bite. If like me you've been suffering from tomato withdrawal, this might be the place to go.

Desserts were disappointing for a change. Maybe the dessert chef is on vacation. We shared an apple and raisin turnover in a filo-like pastry, a molasses cookie, and a lemon merengue tart. I didn't finish any of them.

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