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Restaurants & Bars

Question about The Kitchen, Millbrae

alfairfax | Sep 1, 200603:26 PM     3

Our first visit to this restaurant in the old Seafood Harbor space, where we stopped for dinner last night before I dropped my wife at the airport. We had always enjoyed S.H. for these pre-airport meals and had taken to Zen Peninsula as a replacement but mentions on this list led us to try this place. Based on just one meal, The Kitchen may be the best yet. However, I am curious about the cuisine there. We had pan-fried noodles (chow fun) with shrimp and a eggy sauce poured over; gai lan in garlic sauce; steamed duck with salt fish. Loved them all. Noodles and shrimp perfectly cooked, sauce very savory; gai lan very crispy (I like it like that) and the garlic sauce, best ever; duck and salt fish a wonderful combination, with roasting spices on duck skin and its fat combining with the chewy salty funkiness of the fish and both of them benefitting from the wonderful handful of sichuan peppercorns that topped the dish. We wished that we had more eaters so we could have tasted more dishes. As it is, I have a lot of gai lan leftover, another reason why the crunchy cooking was welcome. Well, there will be more airport trips...

My question is this: although the gai lan and chow fun were not unusual dishes, the duck and fish with peppercorns was new to me. Is this a regional or ethnic cuisine, and if so, what? Or is it the work of a creative chef, a kind of neo-Cantonese? And what other dishes would one recommend for the next visit to The Kitchen?

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