Thanks to all who have posted many recommendations for Provincetown chow. My boyfriend and I have been before for short weekend trips, but this time we wrote down the names of a few places with high marks on Chowhound to use as a reference while we were in town for a week. Here's our feedback:
Standard continental breakfast was provided by our B&B. Nothing special, so we decided to venture out one morning to Edwige. Nice atmosphere, creative menu. My boyfriend had strawberry crepes that were amazing. I had scrambled eggs with Andouille sausage and cheese with a fresh croissant on the side. I will definitely go back.
For lunch on the beach, we tried a range of sandwich shops. The wraps at Box Lunch were the worst. We tried two types of chicken salad (curry and mayo-based) at Angel Foods (Commercial Street in East End) and liked both. Far Land Provisions (Bradford at Conwell) has the best sandwiches overall (for both price and taste). One day we rode our bikes down the rail trail and stopped at Cobie's in Brewster. We stuffed ourselves with below-average, way-too-greasy-for-bike-riding food. The fries were tasty, though. We didn't see many other options for lunch near the trail, unfortunately. On the drive home, we stopped at a gourmet market on Main Street in Sandwich (forgot the name) that had delicious sandwiches.
For dinner, we tried to get into Ross's on a Wednesday, but the host told us when we arrived just after 8:00pm that he could not seat us that evening--the wait list was already that long. He was very friendly, not a velvet rope type. Ross's doesn't take reservations. Maybe next time we'll try to get there earlier. We didn't like the looks of Chester, Front Street, or Martin House--probably the food would have been great, but they're too stuffy for a beach vacation, IMHO.
We did make reservations at Napi one night based on recommendations from Chowhound, but we actually walked out of the place after we were seated. It was way too loud, filled with day trippers (not one other same-sex couple in the restaurant), none of the teenaged servers even acknowledged us for the 15 minutes we sat there, and the menu wasn't so inspiring.
We also tried Lorraine's one night based on a recommendation and were very disappointed. My boyfriend had probably the worst sangria I've ever tasted. We sent it back, but we were still charged for it (probably due to Massachusetts' archaic liquor laws). The tequila was good, but the food was not. Everything was overcooked and dry, and the seasoning was off on every dish. Maybe they count on you drinking enough tequila before the meal to forget about how bad the food tastes.
Either Enzo's or Edwige takes the prize for dinner. I took a gamble and ordered the filet at Enzo's and was very pleased. At Edwige, everything from cocktails to dessert was excellent. Great service from the whole staff and very well-prepared fish, including a tasty tuna tartare over diced avacado. Flourless chocolate cake was to die for.
Cafe Heaven was disappointing. I've been before and had decent meals, but this time the place smelled like mildew and the servers were in a bad mood. Bubala's is an old standby--go with a group, order basics, and drink lots of alcohol and you'll have a great time watching everyone walk by on Commercial Street. Karoo Kafe (South African) has a unique combination of tastes on the menu, it's well-prepared (for being billed as "fast food"), and best of all it's cheap. I always go there once per visit.
Overall, Provincetown is blessed with a range of high-quality chow. I'm puzzled as to why there aren't more Asian options (we saw Thai Fusion Bistro and a takeout Chinese place, and Karoo Kafe has samosas, but that's about it). We plan on going back at least once every couple of years as long as we can afford it, so I look forward to reading your thoughts and seeing more reviews on Chowhound before future visits.