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Pozole verde: do give it a try

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Pozole verde: do give it a try

RST | Nov 19, 2002 09:02 PM

I received a couple of comments via private email in response to my post on pozole verde. The correspondents all surprised me by stating that they are not specially fond of pozole and that it would be a while before they make an attempt to try this. I say that if your impression of pozole is formed by some oily, fire-breathing chile concoction full of characterless, mushy bits of corn (doubtless hominy from a can), you are in for a big surprise.

The pozole verde of Guerrero is as far from this stereotype as you can get. This pozole is light, filigreed, elegant, almost summery in feeling. The pipian adds a wonderful nuttiness as well as voluptuousness of body to what is essentially a vegetable/herb soup. Meat adds substance; the avocado, an unctuous richness; chicharron, crunchiness and umami. And then of course there is the incomparable texture of the painstakingly-prepared hominy "flowers". This is not necessarily a spicy dish: however, there is salsa verde on the side to spoon in if you have a taste for more heat.

This pozole presents itself as a simple, delicate dish but is also intricate and baroque. Just like a good pho, it seems to launch an elaborate assault on every nerve of smell and taste.

I urge you all to go give this great dish a try.

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