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Melanie Wong | Jul 25, 200605:07 AM    

At Sunday morning's farmers market in Windsor, I was happy to see Santi's tent set up and Franco Dunn grilling sausages. "Hey, I thought you retired!", I called out to Santi's chef emeritus. "Naw, only semi-retired, and I'm the one who makes the sausages. But could it be any hotter?", he said. "It's only 95 degrees here, better than 105 back in Geyserville", I replied. His assistant said her job was to keep pouring water over his head. (G)

I taste tested the award-winning Merguez (still too dry for my taste) and the Portuguese linguica. The fresh linguica are made with Duroc pigs now. Franco said he shares 'em with Bruce Aidell who takes the bellies for bacon and he keeps the shoulders for sausage. Whatever the change, I liked the linguica even more than the last time I tried it. Smoky Spanish paprika, wine, the tang of sherry vinegar, a bit of sweetness, and the gentle note of alderwood smoking layered on the heritage pig breed add up to an indescribably complex and delicious sausage. This time I didn't chance missing them again and immediately forked over $8 for a pound package.

Image of Santi sausage samples -
http://static.flickr.com/66/197549519...

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